One entrance is marked with a red “torii”, “Ichi-no-mochi”, The First Gate of Shinto, was first built in 836. “Nara Kōen”, Nara Park, was established around 1810 with a few temples and shrines dotted around this central park. Under the canopy of tall trees in the forest- like park, sika deer roamed freely in the cool environment. The deer, numbering over one thousand, in the unfenced park are said to be scared based on historical legends of the then newly built capital of Heijō- kyō, Old Nara. People fed the deer with deer crackers, “Shika- senbei”. Thousands of stone lanterns, “tachi- doro”, encrusted with lime green moss lined the winding street. Under a shed, several brightly labelled sake barrels were stacked up. The leisure walk brought us to a shrine.

Stone steps led the way towards a vermillion painted entrance. Some lovely and colourful posters depicting certain characters brought some colour to this green landscape. We passed another temple. The lines of stone lanterns add an element of a spiritual environment. With this element, the walk in this park was quite poignant. This forest is scared and is reflected with the ancient trees, some twisted with buttress roots spreading wide. It was certainly not just a walk in a park!

We reached Kasuga Wakimiya Shrine via a flight of stone steps. Wakamiya-jinja is a branch shine of Kasuga Taisha Shrine and founded in 1135. It was quiet and hardly any people around. The straw thatched roof added an appeal of spiritualism in this ambient wooded hill. At one end of the building, a wall of pink heart or love shaped “ema” hung on a wall. The deities enshrined here are for married couple, so prayers made here are mostly for happy marriage and fortune in matters of love.

Hence, the “ema”. Water sprouted off a dragon’s mouth into vessels. Bamboo ladles are placed here for worshippers to wash their hands and face. A tranquil place indeed! Beyond this shrine, a path leads uphill into the mountains to a few smaller shrines. We exited the shrine via another flight of stone steps lined, on both sides, with numerous stone lanterns. This path led towards the most celebrated shrine in this park, Kasuga Taisha.

Breakfast was provided with the booking. In the cool morning, we dined at the low table with a ‘cut out’ bottom to stretch out our legs. It was like sitting on a chair with no back rest. Steaming bowl of rice, pink teriyaki salmon, pickled vegetables, egg roll and a bowl of warm miso soup was served. A hearty breakfast indeed! It may not be everyone’s cup of tea having rice for breakfast. In Japanese culture, this is a norm. Kayoko was always attentive and asked if topping up rice and miso was required. This is a great way to start the day.

From Naramachi, we walked towards Mochidono Arcade and into one of the many side streets. There was an Indian restaurant, amongst several retail shops and eventually ended at the Sarusawa Pond surrounded with willow trees with a view of a pagoda. This is Kōfuku-ji Temple, a Hosso Buddhist Temple. Across Sanjo Dori is a steep flight of steps. At the top, on the left, is an octagonal wooden building, Nan’en- dō, and a path, on the right, towards the five storey pagoda.

Tall pine trees lined this wide gavel path. Kōfuku-ji Temple was established in 710AD and used by the Fujiwara clan during the Nara and Heian Period. Today, however, only a few buildings remained. It included the 50m high five storey pagoda, “gojū-no- tō”, the second highest pagoda in Japan. The enclosure was locked. Apparently a large image of the Healing Buddha, “Yakushi Nyorai”, is located here. We passed the Great Eastern Hall, “Tōkon-dō”. Further walk brought us past a huge construction site – the Central Golden Hall. Then to the Northern Octagonal Hall, “Hoku’en-dō” was originally built in 721. These pair of octagonal structures are quite unique and interesting – the architecture, and are valuable as they both hold irreplaceable and priceless national treasures.

The streets were uncrowded and the walk was pleasant. Finally we reached the green lung – Nara Park, “Nara Kōen”. One entrance is marked with a red “torii”, “Ichi- no- mochi”.

Clothing, quilted bedding and mattresses hung on lines to dry in the sun. Typical daily life continued here. However, it was strangely quiet. This is the magic and charm of this preserved Naramachi. Cosy tea and cake shops allowed time to rest and soak in the atmosphere. There are several temples and shrines hidden amongst these alleyways. Museums, sake breweries, gift shops and “onsen” are scattered in this area. One museum we visited was the “Naramichi Koshi no- le”, the Naramachi Lattice House. It is a restored traditional “machiya” townhouse of a merchant’s house. It was just past closing time but the caretaker allowed us entry. I loved the dark wood floors and staircase. There is a certain ambiance that it creates. A small but refreshing inner garden, “naka-niwa” complete with water basin and stepping stones, occupied the centre of the long townhouse. From the upper floor, the slated windows allowed for views of the tiled roofs, garden and light to enter into the rooms. At front of the house, slatted wooden lattice windows allowed for views of the street but concealed the interior.

A White gem unknown of man –
Be it so if no one knows!
Since I myself know its worth
Although no other –
Be it so if no one knows!
– a monk of the Gango-ji Temple

We stumbled into a temple gate. Gangō-ji Temple site used to occupy a large area in the present – day “sitamachi”, old town. We had no idea if this temple was part of that former complex. It was a serene site with large trees and well-kept grounds. A few stone lanterns decorated the place. An ornate stone footprint lay at the base of an aged tree surrounded by buttress roots. At another street, we entered Toku- ji Temple. These are little surprises we encountered as we strolled aimlessly in Naramachi. Tourist shops are always exciting – little mementos and gifts to take home. We found a “noren” maker at a street corner. These are curtains (usually made of cloth). They are hung at the entrances of houses or as partitions between rooms. Here, there were hand woven hemp cloths, either plain or dyed with vegetable colours. However, we were unable to get the size we wanted. These would make great gifts. Traditional Japanese gifts abound at every corner. On the streets, there were few local tourists today. The walk around is a perfect way to end the day, wandering in leisure. Nowhere to go, but succumb to the charms of ancient Japan!