Category Archives: Malaysia

Malaysia

Taman Negara – Exploration of Malaysia’s ancient rain forest

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  1. Introduction
  2. Getting there
  3. Accomodation
  4. How many days do you need
  5. My journey
  6. Things to do in Taman Negara
    1. Hike to Teresek Hill
    2. Canopy Walk
    3. Lata Berkoh and Kelah Santuary
    4. Watching daily river life
    5. Night Walk
    6. Hike to Tabing Hide
    7. Shooting Rapids and Orang Asli Village
  7. Other things to do
    1. Trekking through tropical rain forest
    2. Hiking 53km to Gunung Tahan
    3. Exploring various caves
    4. Bird watching
    5. Dining by the river
    6. Camping at observation hides
    7. Fishing
  8. Summary
Introduction

Taman Negara, in Gunung Tahan Range between the great Titiwangsa and Eastern Ranges, established around 1939 covered over 4300sq km  encompasses three states – Kelantan, Pahang and Terengganu. Its tropical rain forest jungle is estimated to be over 130 million years old. Everything about this park spells nature – flora, fauna and culture. One of the most biodiverse on the planet. Plus a variety of adventure and exploration. The highest mountain is Gunung Tahan.  Native tribes (orang asli) live within the park. Kuala Tahan is the entry point into Taman Negara. The park boast a spectrum of native animals, both rare and endemic,  including Elephants, Tigers, Gaur, Tapir, Seladang, Serow, Barking Deer and many more. Besides elephants and deer, nearly all are rarely seen. There are over 360 species of birds. The most noticeable are the stately hornbills. Then, there are a diverse  flora evolving over 130 millions with no disturbances.

Getting there

Taman Negara/Kuala Tahan is easily accessed from Jerantut (arrive by train from Gemas or Tumpat on the “Jungle Train”). From Kuala Lumpur to Jerantut, buses (4hrs) are available. I prefer the train. Two journeys are required, KL to Gemas (2.5hrs) and another from Gemas to Jerantut (3.5 hrs). I would highly recommend taking the 2 hr boat ride from Kuala Tembiling (30 minutes from Jerantut) to Taman Negara/Kuala Tahan, if they are operating.  Otherwise, buses or private shuttles. 

Accomodation

Mutiara Resort (luxury) is the only accommodation (with restaurant) within the park. However, several budget to mid-range places can be found in Kuala Tahan. Visitor numbers can be high, so early booking is recommend. 

How many days do you need

At least 2 nights to do several activities listed here. Anyone keen to spend more time jungle trekking or birding, 3 nights would be ideal.

My journey

Due to covid (about 2 years), many establishments had ceased. My original plan was to arrive in Jerantut by train (as part of my ‘jungle train’ experience) and make my way to Kuala Tembeling. Then catch a 3 hour boat ride to Kuala Tahan. The boats were not operating. This would have been an adventurers way to get into the park. Even public transport by local bus was non-existent. I managed to contact NKS (a local private road transport and tour operator). As expected, the cost was high with no other travellers. I took it with no options left.

Jerantut was cool and quiet at dawn. I was the only passenger today when the NKS shuttle arrived at 7am (cost RM$80). We initially took the 58km journey to Kuala Tahan on the  Jerantut-Maran Road. After a while we crossed a bridge over a very muddy Pahang River and veered off into route 2308 towards Padang Piol Felda Settlement. I was excited to be here. However, on the road, we passed several timber lorries loaded with logs and huge acreages of palm oil cultivation. I was completely perplexed (or rather utterly deflated) with venturing into a National Park! It was quite ironic. Forest appeared sporadically. It was quite stunning when the sun filtered through the mist around the tree canopies.

I could see tall trees in the horizon as we crossed a bridge over Tekai River. My spirits lifted with the sight of the dense tropical forest. We passed an assemblage of street stalls, mostly operated by Malays. I finally reached the roads end – Kuala Tahan, the gateway to Taman Negara. The tea coloured Tembeling River was high, with the banks nearly overflowing, and fast flowing resulting from recent rains. A collection of rustic floating boat houses were anchored to the shore. Only 3 were operating with a small canteen. I was overwhelmed to be here. Circumstances had prevented me from venturing here when I was younger and living in Malaysia. Long boats with outboard motors and brightly coloured life vest lined the shore. The terracotta roofs of Mutiara Resort, the only accommodation within the park, laid amongst lush green trees.

Kuala Tahan, at the confluence of Tahan and Tembiling Rivers, is a ramshackle of accommodation and street stalls. Malays and mix of aborigines lived on the outskirts of town dotted along the river. Tembiling River is the pulsating heart of this village. Taman Negara is its economic provider.

After breakfast – roti canai and kopi tarik at a floating restaurant, I jumped into a small boat (RM$1) and crossed the swollen dark tea-coloured Tembiling River. I booked my accommodation at Mutiara Resort. I taught I’d enjoy some luxury this time. Several packages were offered but I choose room only and organised selected activities at the resort. It worked out to be cheaper. The resort itself had only just opened for business. Perhaps 2-3 weeks, due to covid restriction. There are several accommodations in Kuala Tahan and they also organised activities and boat rentals.

From the jetty, up a flight of steps, I entered Taman Negara at 9am. Permit cost RM$1 purchased at the Park HQ (RM$5 for camera). Mutiara is a collection of chalets set within the jungle. The staff here also organised several activities. My stay is 3D2N. At the top of the steps, I watched boats ply across the fast flowing muddy river. Boat operators busily prepared for afternoon tours. It was such a tranquil environment – sweet smell of damp earth; deafening cacophony of creatures of the jungle; breath of fresh oxygenated air; calming sights of flowing water and absence of traffic noise. Positive effects of being in nature.

Things to do in Taman Negara

A variety of activities is on offer by Mutiara Resort, Tour agents and local residents (local accommodations in Kuala Tahan and boatman). Most activities can be organised on the day of arrival. However, some activities require a minimum number of participants or paid in full.

Hike to Teresek Hill

Having arrived too early, I decided to jump into an activity – guided (included with my room) hike to Teresek Hill followed by Canopy Walk. Hiking in NZ is quite different to tropical Malaysia – not only to contend with slippery and muddy tracks, high humidity but worst – leeches! The wetter the season, the higher the numbers. I was prepared. A bar of 555 soap and detol. I applied both-onto my shoes and socks. The jungle sound in the morning is loud. The initial part of the track is walking on wooden pathways surrounded by dense forest. Elephant path and dung laid strewn only half hour outside Mutiara. The ground is littered with leaves in various stages of decomposition. Amongst them, torch ginger with their unique flowers.

The sounds of the jungle is constant. The creatures, well camouflaged. Trees in the jungle grow straight for the light. The undergrowth is generally bare. Fungi played an important role in breaking down decaying materials and feed the jungle. Palms are plentiful. Prickly thorn of the rattan crept up trees. We came upon a magnificent specimen of Mengkudor tree. By looking at its impressive buttress roots, this tree is old. Ficus trees, clang up a tree trunk. An Ipoh tree with several cut marks indicate the poisonous sap had been ‘harvested’ by the Orang Asli (indigenous) for hunting. Walking on boardwalks under a filtered sun and surrounded by lush greenery was enjoyable. Gradually, with about 900 meters to go, steps appeared as elevation increased. The sharp thorns of the creeping rattan should be given a wide berth.  Boardwalk ended with another 500 metres.

The track is now earth with exposed tree roots and rotting leaves. Industrious ants formed a line across the path. Some do bite inducing terrible pain. Best left undisturbed. At the first view point, fast flowing muddy Tembiling River and hazy tree canopies and outcrops were visible. Fortunately the heavy rains that flooded Tembeling River had retreated. The track was dry and encountered very few leeches. Towards the top of the hill, juvenile trees stood like sentinels in numbers. We reached a clearing – Teresak Hill, at 344 meters, after 1.5 hours hike. Drenched from the humidity.

The grandeur of Taman Negara is on display – lush dense virgin jungle as far as the eyes can see. The textures, colours and structures created a mosaic of green. Several peaks appeared in the distance including Gunung Tahan, highest in peninsular Malaysia. Tahan River slithered under the tree canopies. A variety of bird calls including hornbills are heard but not seen. The walk here is easy with, surprisingly, very few leeches. Another track led downhill towards Tahan River completing a loop back to Mutiara. However, we returned the same way and proceed towards the Canopy Walk.

Canopy Walk

Descending from Teresek Hill, we made our way on mostly boardwalks towards the Canopy Walk. A series of suspension rope bridges and platforms, 40m above ground and stretching about 530m. The bridges are tied around tree trunks. The issue with the canopy walk is crowds. The rope bridges can only be accessed by a few at any given time. Therefore, waiting time is long if big crowds.  Not the best for viewing, if any, wildlife. It opens at 10am with RM$5 charge. Get here early, 0930, to avoid crowds especially tour groups.

My group of 15 were the only ones here today. I walked last and managed to get plenty of time observing, always optimistic, of seeing something. The feeling of being amongst tree canopies gave a bird’s eye view of the forest floor. Bird songs are within earshot but mostly hidden. The moisture laden air is fresh. The perspective changes from one platform to another. Then is a short 1.7 km walk back to Mutiara/Park HQ.

Lata Berkoh and Kelah Santuary

After a typical nasi lemak lunch at Mutiara’s restaurant, I organised a boat trip to Lata Berkoh. It cost RM$240 (4 pax)/boat. I signed up with just me hoping to get a few more. This trip can also be organised through the boatmen at the jetty. Eventually, there were three of us. We departed at 2.30pm. Just a short distance on the swollen and muddy Tembiling River, we travelled upstream into Tahan River.

It was shallow, clearer and much calmer. We immediately entered the dense tropical rain forest. Trees were so dense beyond the shores. Trees hung over the meandering river. In several area, the water flow over rapids were fast. However, our experienced boatmen expertly managed to get through with little incident other than water splashing onto the passengers. The fast ride over a swift river was exhilarating. Sharp manoeuvres were employed to negotiate the rapids on this winding river. Some places were so shallow, the pebbles were churned up.

Stopped at a grand old, est 700 yrs, Tualang tree. It is a stunning specimen. There are several around but this one is closest to the river. Its straight trunk is perfectly round supported by a wide buttress root.  Next stop, Kelah (type of fish) feeding and watching. With opaque and high water level, only the dives were observed. Back on the river, several manoeuvres over fast flowing rapids gave me an adrenaline rush. Away from the fast flowing waters, tannin – leeching of organic forest materials, gave rust coloured surfaces. The filtered sun gleamed against this tanin rich waters.

After an hours’ ride, we stopped on a sandy shore. Trees branches hung low over the river with creepers dangling down. As the boatmen anchored the boats, we walked for 30 minutes upriver towards Lata Berkoh.

The roar of the falls was loud as we approached. It was not exactly a waterfall but a violently cascading water over a series of boulders in the river. Nevertheless, it was impressive today with the high water level. Swimming is not recommended. We returned the same way but this time a little easier as we headed downstream. The ride was just as exciting. For me, the highlight was the wild fast boat ride over the rapids surrounded by lush ancient rain-forest. Be prepared to get wet. We returned to the resort around 5pm, just in time for tea.

Watching daily river life

This evening, after coffee and snacks, I headed down to the boat jetty. The sun shined brightly. Locals plied across the river. Mutiara staff giggled as they jumped into a boat to head home. Forest Rangers headed into the jungle to start their shift. It was quite meditative to watch the water churn and flow downstream. Bird songs everywhere.

Night Walk

After dinner, I sign up for a Night Walk (RM$45) with Mutiara which started at 9pm. Armed with a binoculars and torchlight, we headed towards Tahan Hide with a local guide. Immediately, we came upon a poisonous spitting cobra wriggling on the boardwalk near our accommodations. We gave it a wide path and moved along. Always be aware when walking at night. As with all wildlife observation, nothing is for certain. Tahan Hide is an observation post looking towards a salt lick and grassy area usually frequented  by grazers. Armed with a powerful torch, we managed to spot two deer foraging. The best part of walking in the dark illuminated only by torch light is the anticipation of seeing something. The jungle is noisy. The creatures of the night can be heard but unseen. We managed to see stick insects, spiders, tree dwelling lizards, tarantula and scorpions – under infra red light, was quite interesting to observe its movements. The night walk lasted an hour. Back at my room, I sipped coffee to the concert of jungle, unheard at daytime.

Hike to Tabing Hide

The 3.1km track start from the Park HQ. I did not get any guides as the tracked is well marked. Officially, guides are required? Initially, it is a series of boardwalks through mature jungle. Incidentally, this is also the start of the arduous 53km trail to Peninsula Malaysia’s tallest mountain, Gunung Tahan. In comparison, climbing Mt Kinabalu, the highest in South East Asia is easier! The sounds of the jungle is facinating. In 800m, I reached Lubuk Simpon, a swimming spot on the Tahan River. Hornbill calls, amongst others, can be heard above in the tree canopies. This is a great spot to observe birds. Boats heading to Lata Berkoh zoomed pass on the dark but clear Tahan River.

Back on the track, another trail headed uphill towards Bukit Teresek (a loop). The boardwalk ended and earth track began. This means, lookout for leeches. The diversity of the jungle is amazing. Rattan vines with sharp spikes spiralled up trees. Matured trees with massive buttress roots added texture to the landscape. The sun hardly penetrated through the dense tree canopies. Insects went about the ways recycling dead entities. Decaying elephant dung are visible along the trail. A variety of fungus transformed decaying materials into ‘soil’. The jungle is a fragile.

Fortunately, the ground was drier and thus, less presence of the pesky leeches. In places, the trail was obscured by fallen trees. I continued further up to a small concrete bridge. I finally reached a signage pointed towards the river crossing to access Chegar Anjing Hide. I was running out of time as I had organised going to visit a native village this afternoon. Perhaps, another 10 minutes walk would have brought me to Tabing Hide. Here, overnight stay to observe wildlife is permitted. Reluctantly, I retraced my track back to Mutiara. A solitude walk in a native ancient tropical jungle!

Shooting Rapids and Orang Asli Village

This afternoon, I joined a tour (RM$80) to visit an Orang Asli (native) village and riding over rapids on the Tembeling River. There were a number of people. Two boats appeared at the wharf. I picked the 4 seater ( the other about 8). I loved the passive boat travel. It permits time to observe and absorb the surroundings. The speed is exhilarating. Shortly, we arrived on the banks of asli village. The tribe here were Batek people. Sometimes, it bothered me to visit places like this – am I intruding into their nomadic lifestyle or am I contributing to the demise of the traditional ways. With ‘outsiders visiting daily, I wondered albeit benefiting financially.

The Batek homes on stilts were made from bamboo (floor), tree bark (walls) and thatched palm leaves ( roofs). I met the village head as he was entering the jungles to do some foraging. They are still hunter gatherers. Fruit trees and vegetables were cultivated in the village compound. An exhibition on using a blow pipe and starting fire using just a bamboo and thin rope. The tourists were fascinated especially when it was hands on. I had worked amongst orang asli (Semai) near Simpang Pulai and Tanjong Rambutan in Ipoh and was familiar with their lifestyles. Nevertheless, it is a learning experience. Inside the village head’s house, several ‘gifts’ of clothing and food from Samaritans laid on the bamboo floor. Dark skin and curly hair is dominant. There are a few asli villages dotted along Tembeling River within the park. The other tribe are the Semokberi. All visits are only permitted with an organised tour.

Back on the boat, we proceeded up river on the swollen and fast flowing Tembiling River. Soon, we faced our first rapid. The boat man expertly manoeuvred through it. It was exhilarating. The 8-seater boat with roof was ahead into the next rapid. The surface was rough. Their boat rocked about rolling from one side to another, almost capsizing. Screams can be heard. Water splashed onto our faces as our boat man made his way forward and out. The best part is we do it again on the return river journey. Tip – take the 4 seater open top boat. This tour took about 2. 5 hours. Although I had reservations on the asli village visit, overall it is a wonderful experience.

Other things to do
Trekking through tropical rain forest

the various tracks (see maps). You are in a 130 millions years tropical jungle. You will observe huge buttress roots, spiky rattan vines, all kind of creepy crawlies including leeches, bird songs and if you’re very lucky bigger wildlife – elephants, deer and tapir.

Hiking 53km to Gunung Tahan

This is a tough climb and guides are recommended. Camping is required. Takes between 4 – 7 days, depending on the trail and experience.

Exploring various caves

Near Taman Negara which includes Gua Kepayang Besar, Gua Kepayang Kecil and Gua Telinga. Overnight stays are possible. Organised tours can arranged. However, when I was there, access to these caves were closed by the park for safety reasons.

Bird watching

Birding is quite phenomenon here with over 380 species of birds particularly along Tahan River at Lubok Simpon and towards Lata Berkoh as these places are quite acessable. Outside the park, Hornbill Valley, from Kuala Tahan towards Kampong Pagi (by road) along Tembiling River in the early hours can be rewarding.

Dining by the river

Dining at the various floating restaurants is a wonderful way to engage with the locals, taste local staples like nasi goreng, roti canai, nasi lemak, keow teow or mee goreng and teh tarik with condensed milk.

Camping at observation hides

Some overnight stays at designated hides are permitted. Check at park HQ. This includes Bumbung Tabing,  Kumbang, Yong, Blau and Chegar Anjing. Booking are only permitted 1 day before. Some may be closed. Appropriate attire, insect repellent and gear is essential.

Fishing

Fishing along both Tembeling and Tahan Rivers is one of the leisure way to enjoy the park. Boats can be hired to go further into the park. Fishing tour operators can provide gear and transport.

Summary

An amazing and exciting experience filled with thrills of the boat rides through thick overhanging forest and rapids; sitting by the swollen Tembeling River observing the locals plying up and down river; listening to the sounds of creatures of the jungle both day and night and immersed in the thick and lush tropical forest by trekking. The diversity of the flora and fauna is priceless. The anticipation of seeing something in the wild is very tantalising. Perhaps a tiger – no chance! An elephant or tapir – perhaps. Finally, a must do while in Malaysia.

Malaysia

Trains Journeys in Malaysia

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  1. Bookings, Types of Trains/Class and Services
  2. 1st journey – Ipoh to Segamat
  3. 2nd leg – Ipoh to Sg Petani
  4. 3rd leg – Alor Setar to Butterworth
  5. Malaysia’s Jungle Train
    1. Student trains on the Jungle Train Line

My love for riding trains developed during my childhood days, around 6 years old.  My siblings and I lived in Ipoh city with mum and dad worked in the plantations near Kuala Kurau (105 km).  We only see him on weekends. However, during school holidays, we travel to see him in the plantation.

Friday, I am all excited anticipating the impending journey. The majestic Ipoh Railway Station, with its stunning Moorish domes and English architecture, is walking distance from home. It is always crowded. Printed razor blade size platform tickets, are required before boarding. There are a multitude of activities amidst steam gushing out from the engine; engineers in oil stained overalls – checking and oiling the iron shafts; station workers hurrying along the platform – unloading and loading assortment of goods; occasional loud clanging of wagons being hooked up; passengers scurrying, with baggage and children in hand, sorting out their carriages and seats.

I loved the seemingly chaotic scene intoxicated with the scent of hot oil and diesel. In the final scenes, looking out from the open window, train conductors waved red and green flags indicating readiness for departure. The station master handed over the track key, an oval shaped ring with a key, to the locomotive engineer before taking his place at the platform. Whistles are blown frantically indicating departure is eminent. The final clearance is given by the station master. Engine horns are sounded several times. A big jolt rumbled through the carriages, numbering over 15, as the brakes are released. Then, the engines roared. Followed by churning of the iron wheels. Slowly but surely our journey began.

Like many other children,  I hardly sat on the seat. Instead, put my head out the window with the air brushing through the hair and face. The train passed through towns – stopping regularly, rustic villages, rubber plantations, bridged rivers and dense jungles. The distinct clickty-clack sound of the wheels as they rolled over the gaps on the iron tracks; the gentle sway of the carriages; the haunting sound while passing through tunnels and iron bridges; the dizzying sight of the track while pissing in the toilet and the challenges in crossing from coach to coach over the rather exposed and continuously moving platforms. At each stop, vendors hurried onto the platform and boarded the coaches to sell food and drinks. Buying and selling is brisk and sometimes on the go, with vendors running as the train departed. I loved those moments. All these experiences had etched my love for train travel.

On my return to Ipoh this April 2022, after two years of covid restrictions and quarantine isolation in Malaysia and NZ, I decided to re-live my past experiences of train journeys. There was an urgency as old diesel engines had been replaced with modern electric trains. Plans to electrify all the lines in the country is under rapid construction. The West Coast Railway Line from Singapore via Gemas to Thailand border at Padang Besar is complete. An offshoot track from Bukit Mertajam terminated at Butterworth . Concrete replaced  rustic hardwood railway sleepers. Even, the old stations had been replaced or abandoned. Fortunately some, although not in use anymore, are still around. The majestic Ipoh and Kuala Lumpur Stations are both old school iconic heritage buildings. They are irreplaceable. Fortunately, the East Coast Railway Line –  from Gemas to Tumpat –  sometimes referred as ‘The Jungle Train’, still retained some of its nostalgic past –  diesel engine trains with sleeper carriages snaking alongside mountains and a rapidly diminishing jungle. Unfortunately, with modern coaches, windows are sealed for air conditioning. A price to pay for comfort.

Bookings, Types of Trains/Class and Services

All bookings can be done online or stations. Railways in Malaysia is managed by Keretapi Tanah Melayu (KTM). For a alternate train information, please go to full inter city schedule.

There are several types of trains –  (1) ETS,  electrified double tracked intercity passenger service on the West Coast Railway Line (WCRL) operating from Gemas to Butterworth (7 hours)/Padang Besar (about 8.5 hours). Southbound from Gemas, ETS is under construction. However, a train shuttle service is available from Gemas to Johor Bahru/Kempas Baru and onward to Singapore. ETS is the fastest train service in Malaysia. Ticket prices are based on class of trains – Platinum, Gold or Silver (the classes are classified from the number of stops). Executive/Business seats cost more compared to Standard.

(2) KTM Intercity service is hauled by diesel engines with services on the East Coast Railway Line (ECRL). The 16.5 hours service is from Johor Bahru Sentral to Tumpat (in both directions) on the Express Rakyat Timuran (ERT 26/27). Sometimes referred to as the Jungle Train. The  route passed through the virgin jungles at several places along the main Titiwangsa Range. This has the only sleeper amenity. This service is on a single track. Only at strategic stations, can northbound and southbound trains pass. Therefore, this service is not for those in a hurry. To fully appreciate the ‘Jungle Train‘, find the best connections for daytime journey.

(3) Another service to complement ECRL is the DMU, a diesel powered shuttle service currently operating between Gemas to Kuala Lipis and another Kuala Lipis to Tumpat. They use the same single track on the ECRL.

1st journey – Ipoh to Segamat

Starting my journey in Ipoh Railway Station, I did several journeys northbound and southbound during my stay. Ipoh Station has a majestic architecture – a English colonial building with Moorish domes built in 1917. The second floor housed the now defunct Majestic Hotel. The first segment was to Segamat on the ETS.

Ipoh is where I was born and educated. I highly recommend everyone to explore my hometown – old town that tin built, colonial buildings, delicious street food and old coffee shops, limestone cave temples and easy pace of life.

Not far from Ipoh is old single platform wooden Batu Gajah Station. During my childhood, Mum would bring us here by train to visit our grandfather whom worked in Malayan Tin Dredging Company. Staff were given accommodation. The housing area were surrounded with mining pools. I remembered a bakery nearby. Today, the heydays of tin mining is over. The housing quarters are now privately owned housing. I was pleasantly surprised that the bakery is still operated by the same family! Furthermore, the old station is now a eatery. The building and colours had been retained. Batu Gajah was a colonial (English) administrative town. Remnants of the old colonial buildings are still being continuously used by the local government.

The intriguing Kellie’s Castle is nearby. Today, ex-mining pools are filled with wild water hyacinth and lotus. Along the train journey,  sporadic patches of rubber small-holdings had been replaced by large tracts of Oil Palm plantations. However, it was wonderful to see traditional village houses as the train whizzed past.

Next stop is Kampar Station, another town that tin built. In my youth, we arrived at Kampar to continue onward west towards Teluk Intan and to Lumut/Pangkor Island. This was before the new highway was built. I remembered the famous chicken curry within a baked bread. Today, cooks gave a new mouth watering name- “golden pillow”.

We passed Tapah Road Station. This used to be the gateway to the cool highlands – Cameron Highlands. The area is intensively cultivated with tea, vegetables and horticulture (fruits and ornamental). However, with greed to cultivate more, surrounding hills and mountains have been cut and developed. Today, it is not as cool as the days I was there. It’s a shame. Still, something different from the lowlands. Some colonial buildings still remain. Another entry point into Cameron Highland is from Simpang Pulai, near Ipoh. The more exciting road journey would be from Gua Musang, across the main Titiwangsa Range, via Lojing Highlands. More about this later.

Past Tapah Road, the desolate ex-mining lands are replaced with large tracks of Palm Oil cultivation and small pockets of forests. The main North-South Titiwangsa Range (form the spine of Peninsula Malaysia) becomes visible. Once past Rawang, the scenery changed to mostly urban and small scale cultivated fields.  This continued till the stunning and stylish Kuala Lumpur Station – now relegated to a ‘stop-over’. Before KL Sentral Station, this was the central station. It has lost some shine. Although dated, it still has a wonderful old world charm.

Kuala Lumpur Sentral Station (KL Sentral)  is the major transit or connection hub going south. This is the heartbeat of all intercity and city commuter (LRT/MRT)  trains. Every time I return to Malaysia and KL Sentral, my ritual is to dine at Le Cucur – to acclimatise my taste buds in local cuisine – Laksa, Curry Mee and an assortment of sweet treats. Not this time though as my journey continued south to Gemas.

From KL to Gemas, the journey passed through more oil palm plantations. Across Negeri Sembilan, Minangkabau houses with corrugated iron roof dot the landscape. Tanpin Station is the stop to continue a road journey to Melaka. At around 1450, past a large depot, our train arrived at the Gemas Station. This was my second time here. The first was many years ago with the 1151km West Coast diesel train that plied between Padang Besar (Malaysia-Thailand border) to Woodlands, Singapore. Personally, that period was the golden years of train travel in Malaysia. These days, with sealed windows and doors, we are sanitised from the exterior environment! I missed that experience.

Gemas Station is the only meeting point between the East Coast and West Coast trains. Hence, its significance. Therefore, purchasing tickets between Ipoh and Johor Bahru on the booking website is currently not possible. The booking should be :- Ipoh – Gemas and another from Gemas – Segamat/Johor Bahru. This will soon change when all the southbound lines are fully electrified for ETS. The electrification upgrade on the West Coast line is under rapid construction.

The southbound diesel engine train Express 45 to Segamat was waiting on the adjacent platform. Frantic exchange of north and south bound passengers was brief. With whistles, waving of green flag and toot from the blow horn, we pulled out at 1523. The ETS that I arrived departed Gemas to Butterworth at 1520. Printed tickets gets clipped like the old days. It was sobering to see pockets of forest, villages and river crossings. However, the ever expanding palm plantations had claimed most of the land.

My final destination on this journey- Segamat Station was a simple temporary structure. I met up with my long time mates – Chen and Mee Lian. We planned an exciting adventure program (on a separate post – hiking Gunung Datuk and Kolam Puteri, and camping in nature- Endau Rompin National Park). We drove past a massive construction – the new train station. Apart from KL Sentral, this place is huge. Why such an enormous station here baffled me and local residents Chen and Mee Lian too. Time for catch up over white coffee and kaya-butter toast at a kopi-tiam.

My journey to Segamat coincided with a national holiday – Hari Raya (Muslim celebration after Ramadan month of fasting). In town, residents were busy with shopping.  Temporary road side stalls sold the popular ‘lemang – glutinous rice wrapped in banana leaves and cooked in bamboo. Kerosene lamps on bamboo poles lit up streets and homes. Festivities are alive in Malaysia. All this amidst COVID. Even the train station became an ‘attraction’ for smartly dressed locals and visitors with families. I discovered this on my departure. In town, I managed to witness an abandoned old  railway bridge with the old tracks on hardwood railway sleepers still intact, over a muddy Segamat River. The new and modern electric lines run parallel to it.

On my return journey to Ipoh, I wandered around Gemas town, just across the new station. It still retained its atmospheric old town vibe. I discovered the Gemas Train Museum, the town’s old station. It is in shambles. Gates were locked but I managed to get access through a side fence. Old Gemas Station remained in a dilapidated state with piles of empty alcohol bottles and rubbish. Probably occupied by drug addicts and the homeless. In the arrival lobby, dogs slept on cool cement floor. On the old rusty tracks, deteriorated goods wagons stood in silence, a reminder of a bygone era.

2nd leg – Ipoh to Sg Petani

The northbound West Coast Line terminated in Padang Besar. However, my final destination was to Alor Setar, a place I first worked (for 3.5 years) after graduation – Muda Agriculture Development Authority. Strangely since I left, I had not revisited it again. Can’t explain! Anyway, this time I decided to catch up with some of the few remaining friends/former colleagues.  However, at my friend Syed’s request, stopped over at his home in Sg Petani. My journey started in my hometown – Ipoh. Going north of Ipoh by ETS is the most convenient public transport – both to Penang and Thai border. Once out of Ipoh town, limestone hills become prominent. In fact, Ipoh is surrounded by limestone hills. Small rubber holdings and palm cultivations are prevalent between Tasek and Sg Siput. Housing schemes had also extended here. A cement production plant in Tasek is unmissable. The journey is mostly through semi-rural towns and cropping areas. We reached Kuala Kangsar Station.

Kuala Kangsar, on the banks of Perak River is a significant town – in fact a Royal Town where the Sultanate of Perak has residence. You’ll know when gates and road side structures are painted in gold (colour). Some of the interesting sights are the Ubudiah mosque, Royal Museum and the historic Victoria Bridge (built in 1892 -1900). Other interesting sight is cruising on Perak River and sampling local food and culture. This is also the stop for those heading toward the East Coast to Kota Bahru via the Royal Belum Forest/Temenggor Dam/Pulau Banding. Be warned, public transportation is scares. The main mountain range is now closer as we leave Kuala Kangsar and the train begins to climb towards Padang Rengas. The air is significantly cooler and the train tracks are sandwiched between rubber, palm plantations and forest. A tunnel cuts through the mountains to significantly reduce time and cost. Small holding inter-spread with secondary forest. Then descends towards Taiping Station.

Taiping, one of my favourite places is a must stop. It has plenty to offer – a major colonial town with plenty of colonial building and architecture, old markets and food courts, museums and rest houses. There is even a hill station – Maxwell Hill (accommodations were closed at the time of visit). However, the best thing to do is walking up the steep hill early in the morning as the locals do. The lake garden surrounded by ancient rain trees, war memorial cemetery and zoo should keep anyone busy for a few days. A common sight is elderly people sipping and chatting in quaint coffee shops. Taiping is taunted as “town for retirees”.

From Taiping, you can visit Kuala Sepetang by road transport. It is on the coast popular with seafood restaurants and river excursions – watching Kites, Fireflies and fishing villages. Don’t miss the boardwalk through the mangrove forest and visit a charcoal factory.

As the journey progressed north, it passed many small villages and large tracts of palm plantations. However, the train slows down significantly as it crosses a picturesque Bukit Merah Lake and rolled into Parit Buntar Station. This town took me down memory lane (childhood days). It hasn’t changed much. This is where I used to disembark and catch a taxi into Kuala Kurau towards my dad’s workplace. Those were fond memories.

At Bukit Mertajam Station, trains heading north towards Padang Besar (Thailand border) including Sungei Petani separate from those heading towards Butterworth. No exchange of trains is required.  However, coming from Padang Basar, exchange is required at Bukit Mertajam. This may change. The scenery changed from plantations to paddy fields interspersed with village houses on stilts and small townships. Irrigation canals and pump stations can be see regularly. Mountains are relegated to the horizons. The land is flat making this one of the  rice basket of Malaysia. Eventually, my train drifted into Sungei Petani Station. I cannot recognise this town at all. So many developments had taken place in the last 30 years. Finally to catch up with Syed and other friends.

Sungei Petani was a sleepy town with the main road passing through it. The railway line ran parallel to it. Small scale industries and small rubber holding used to flank the main roads. Development had set in.   One of the interesting sight to visit is the Bujang Valley Archeological site (early Hindu Civilization) near Tikam Batu. If you are interested to the less travelled road to Thailand, there is access from here towards Baling and onward to the border.

The following day, we used road transport all the way to Alor Setar. An interesting place to stop is Gurun, with access to Gunung Jerai, a mountain resort and recreational forest. This is probably the only mountain in this rather flat landscape.

Alor Setar Station is now a modern concrete building to accommodate the ETC trains. However, the heritage wooden train station still remained but converted into a eatery. Some of the historic rain trees remained. As expected, the town had grown with several tall buildings including Menara  Alor Setar, the old museums including Balai Norbat, Royal Hall, Art Gallery, Dataran Medan Bandar and Zahir Mosque. A drive to Kuala Kedah is an interesting escape out of town. I wondered if the Teluk Chengai Laksa (my old office headquarters) was still available? My favourite during my life here back in the early 80’s. One of my happy times is during Ramadan fasting month where a myriad of food and local delicacies are on sale in front of the UMNO building, opposite Pekan Rabu. My time spent here was too short to re-visit past experiences.

3rd leg – Alor Setar to Butterworth

From Alor Setar Station, the northbound ETS (and Komuter) trains terminated at Padang Besar Station on the Thai Border. I did not travel this route. Going from my past experiences, it a frontier town. Both locals and Thais can be seen trading all sorts of goods in both directions. To continue onward into Thailand – Hat Yai and Bangkok, one must cross the border and continue in a Thai train. In the past, I had taken the wonderful express train from Butterworth to Bangkok. Sadly, it is no longer in service perhaps due to covid restrictions. The nostalgic but expensive Orient Express from Singapore to Bangkok is also currently suspended.

From Alor Setar, I took the ETS to Butterworth Station (via Bukit Mertajam) and onward to Penang (Swettenham Pier), another one of my favourite places, by ferry. I made an error in booking as there is a Komuter train from Padang Besar to Butterworth. Staying in Georgetown is ideal to explore this island. Public transport is efficient. Historic buildings, old clan houses on the jetty, revived old town oozing with charm, historic homes converted into budget and boutique accommodations, cultural overload and glorious street food. Oh yes, and the beaches. Penang has it all.

Malaysia’s Jungle Train

Please read my nostalgic journey on the conventional train journey on Malaysia’s Jungle Train – the East Coast Railway Line (ECRL) in the next post.

Student trains on the Jungle Train Line

While travelling on the ECRL, I heard about a student shuttle that departs Tumpat/Tanah Merah and arrive at Dabong to begin school. After school,  another shuttle goes northwards to Tumpat. Similarly, although lesser, student south of Dabong have a similar arrangement. It may be a long day for these students but may be the best option available. Road transport takes longer and parents may not have time to drive. It is a very novel way for these dedicated students to get an education.  Many student board the trains at several Railway Halts (just a shed) that lines the ECRL. Something to applaud the railway operators.

Malaysia

Malaysia’s Jungle Train

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  1. 1st leg – Gemas to Jerantut
  2. 2nd leg – Kuala Lipis – Gua Musang
  3. 3rd leg – Gua Musang to Tumpat
    1. Types of seats and coaches
  4. Summary and tips
  5. Route and schedule
  6. Train Journeys in Malaysia

I wanted to experience one of South East Asia’s classic train journeys – the last remaining conventional diesel engine trains before they are all electrified – The East Coast Railway Line (ECRL). Sometimes referred at the ‘Jungle Railway’. Built by indentured Tamil laborer between 1910 and 1931, the 530km track was built through difficult terrain, rivers, wet tropical weather and mountains. It was originally known as “Golden Blowpipe”. The builders followed the most convenient way – followed the lowest points – the river. The single track passed through plantations, village houses on stilts surrounded by tall coconut palms and mango trees; crossed a network of muddy streams and rivers over historic bridges and tunnels; and tracts of lush jungle. There is only one service on this single track, east and south bound, between Johor Bahru (near Singapore) to Tumpat (near the Thailand border). This is also the only service with sleeper amenity (ERT26/ERT27) offered by KTM. To fully appreciate this service, I did this journey in parts. Partly, to enjoy the ride in daytime as well as seeing interesting places. More importantly, to see the jungle as it is diminishing at a alarming rate to Palm Oil cultivation. I want to re-live the nostalgic journey of its hey days.

My train journey on the East Coast Railway Line (ECRL) began in Gemas. However, I would do it in 3 legs. First from Gemas to Jerantut. Second from Kuala Lipis to Gua Musang. Finally, on the iconic long distance conventional diesel locomotive with sleeper carriages (day and night) facility from Gua Musang to Tumpat.

1st leg – Gemas to Jerantut

For my 1st leg, I returned to Gemas for an onward journey to Jerantut. The reason is to visit Taman Negara (National Park) located in Kuala Tahan. I boarded the DMU Shuttle 36 at 1535. To take the conventional diesel express train (ERT26), I needed to depart at 0118! This is the first time I had taken the East Coast Railway Line (ECRL). Besides that, this was my first visit to the National Park (Taman Negara).  The DMU Shuttle is primarily providing transport service to  interior smaller towns where road access is limited. Thus included plantations and villages. The cafeteria on this train  today had no service. Gemas is also the junction where the East Coast and West Coast Railway Lines meet. As such, has a large depot for maintenance.

Departing Gemas, the coaches were almost empty. Only 3 passengers in my coach. Train speed was between 35-55kph through mix of rubber and large oil palm cultivation, and across small rustic townships. In the villages, under rambutan trees, kids chatted while lying in hammocks. Passed a couple of palm processing factories and labour quarters. Stands of rubber trees with tapping panels on the trunk and black collection cups line the part of the track. Horns were sounded occasionally as the track passed close of inhabited but rural areas. This ride truly gave an insight into rural life.

However, at next stop in Bahau Station, the crowds began to fill. Many were locals visiting friends and relatives during the Raya season. Malay women in head scarfs from Mentakab returned after holidaying in Bahau. The festivity mood spread around the coach. Stops were frequent, as its a peoples train. We passed market stalls and villages mosques. Train slowed down in places as cattle crossed the tracks. Several road crossings are passed with road traffic brought to a halt. Not long after, the track passed through large oil palm plantations and processing factories.

A brief stop at Kemayan Station and within minutes at Triang Station where, mostly Chinese passengers with shorts and t-shirts boarded the shuttle. Mentakab Station is a significant stop for those intending to travel to Kuantan (via the East Coast Expressway), the capital of Pahang, on the coast. It is also the exit point to Kuala Gadah Elephant Sanctuary (on the fringe of Krau Wildlife Reserve). To get there, take Highway 2 to Lanchang and then follow route 236 to the sanctuary.

The station master had a train token around his hand. The train token (railway signalling) is a ‘key’ to allow the train engineer to pass from one section to another. At the end of each section, the engineer must surrender the token to the station master and collect the next token for an onward journey. This is particularly used in single track lines to ensure safety. No trains are allowed to pass without these tokens. They are exchanged at strategic stations along the route.

Kuala Krau Station is picturesque as the sun dipped below the surrounding distant mountains. However, beware, mind your step means just that, as the platform is much lower. The journey get interesting as we passed Sg Krau and views of muddy Pahang River. As we passed through a large scale FELDA palm plantation, the train made a brief stop. Jenderak Station is nothing more than a shed. Trucks and motorbikes rushed towards the train to collect the passengers as well a groups sending off families and friends. This train is literally the only public transport for many on this line. There are no buses or taxis at these remote stops. Dusk rolled in q.

The journey crossed several tributaries of Pahang River and hills. We finally rolled into Jerantut Station at 1910. It was quiet and only a handful of passengers disembarked. I noticed that the station master had a token in his hand, destined for a train heading up to Wakaf Bahru . My SH36 DMU train however continued to Kuala Lipis and return to Gemas. From the station, it is a short walk to my accommodation in town, Jerantut Hill Hotel. Due to covid, many businesses were shut including eateries. Tomorrow, I’ll leave for Kuala Tahan to explore Taman Negara (National Park).

2nd leg – Kuala Lipis – Gua Musang

On my 2nd leg, my plan after visiting Taman Negara was to find transport from Kuala Tahan to Jerantut and bus to Kuala Lipis to catch the 1645 DMU Shuttle (SH60) to Gua Musang(1818). However, I managed to hitch hike from Taman Negara to initially Kuala Lipis. The foreigners were heading to Cameron Highlands. After confirmation from the polis, the road through Sg Koyan was closed. Recent heavy rains had damaged the road causing landslides and flooding. Therefore, without any option, we continued all the way to Gua Musang by road. This option meant I had more time to explore in Gua Musang. Unfortunately, there is no train journey account. The train route from Kuala Lipis to Gua Musang followed the main roads mostly through oil palm plantations. Occasionally, patches of forest appeared. Both the road and the ECRL skirt the Western boundaries of Taman Negara. A new dual carriage highway was under construction in Pahang. Strangely, it abruptly ended at the Kelantan border. Perhaps local politics at work. (Kelantan is ruled by a government opposition party). The drive was uninteresting – just hectares and hectares of oil palm plantations on relatively flat terrain. I arrived at Gua Musang around 3pm.

Kual Lipis itself, the former capital of Pahang has some interesting sights. It is located at the confluence of Jelai and Lipis Rivers which eventually drains into the mighty Pahang River. It old train station, proximity to Kenong Rimba Park and old town vibe deserves a day or two.

Gua Musang is an interesting place, in the middle of no where. In my youth, this was the place to go. So remote in the middle of the dense jungles. Back then, only logging tracks from Lojing Highlands (and Cameron Highlands) head towards Gua Musang. The ECRL was the only link to the outside world. Today, there is road access to both Lojing ang Cameron Highlands. Read here about my stay in Gua Musang.

3rd leg – Gua Musang to Tumpat

This early morning I was quite excited as I headed towards the new Gua Musang train station for my 3rd leg. Thick mist descended over the many limestone hill that surround this lovely town. The street lights were on at 7am. Just before the station, a mak cik was setting up the warong (roadside stall). After a tasty homemade nasi lemak and hot condensed milk coffee, I made my way to the station. My Jungle Train – Express 26 (northbound) that departed Kempas Baru, Johor last night (2044) is expected to arrive here at 0740. Bukit Gua Musang formed a dramatic backdrop for the station. Breakfast was available at the station too. I packed some snacks for the journey. A red locomotive approached the station right on cue. Finally, the reality of taking the conventional train on the ECRL from Gua Musang to its terminus at Tumpat became a reality.

Types of seats and coaches

On this ERT26, T6 – 8 are sleeper carriages, ADNS (Air-conditioned Day/Night Second – bunk style (upper and lower berths). Each coach has 60 berths. This sleeping berths are popular and therefore, early booking is essential. There is also a buffet coach on board. The rest of the coaches T2 – 3 are sitting class – ASC (Air-Conditioned Second Class) with a 2×2 and T1 is AFC (Air-conditioned First/Business Class) with a 2×1 configurations.

My booking was ASC with only a handful of passengers. With flag signals from the Station Master, we rolled on. The beautiful sound of the wheels rolling over the iron track and gentle sway of the carriages brought me back to childhood holidays. Only ‘negative’ were the sealed glass windows. The train whizzed pass the old picturesque wooden Gua Musang Station and the surrounding limestone hills. An Indian lady from Johor Bahru made this journey to Kuala Krai for a wedding. I ventured into the last coach T1, the AFC. It was tidy. I asked the conductor there if I could be here. ‘Help yourself, its almost empty! The end of that coach has a glass window to the outside world.

Almost immediately, we passed forests, mixed-cropping and rural scenery. The train crossed a few iron bridges and sometimes almost brushed past tall grasses. Between coaches, the doors are not automatically locked. I described about my childhood experiences with open doors and windows to the conductor. To my surprise, he opened the door. The smells of the pristine jungle and the dense and cool morning mist was heavenly. I held the door handle tightly in one hand. The cool wind brushed against my face. The track came close and followed Galas River for several kilometers until Limau Kasturi Station. It then turns and travelled west. Soon, we passed Bertam Baru Station and crossed Clementi Bridge over a muddy Betis River, a tributary of Galas River. Between dense jungles, locals cultivated cash crops like bananas and vegetables along the tracks.

Just past 0900, we crossed Kemubu Bridge over tea coloured Galas River with a backdrop of majestic limestone hills. Pedestrians and bikes use the attached lane to cross. We soon zoomed past Kemubu Station. At 0935, we reached Dabong Station. Many people, mostly with backpacks, disembarked here. Dabong is a learning center where the ‘school train‘ brings students. Otherwise, a longer journey by road. Besides that, it is popular with hiking and cave exploration. Particularly, climbing Gunung Stong.  With limited time, my journey continued north.

Now, following Galas River again, the track continued towards Kuala Gris Station. From here-on, the track through dense jungles veered away from Sg Galas and turned south. To facilitate the journey, engineers constructed eight tunnels and viaducts. These construction were made by the British when they occupied Malaya. These were exciting times especially on a cloudy and misty day like today. The air is crisp. Almost taste the freshness of the jungle air as the train swayed slowly from one tunnel to another inter-spread with historic viaducts that seem to float in the air. Sometimes with rivers below. As the ECRL is a single track, our EP26 stopped at Bukit Abu Station to allow the DMU train to pass. It is always interesting to witness other trains pass.

The track soon made a big U, over a mountainous and densely forested section, on a south-east direction and moved north towards Manek Urai Station. The jungle became distant as palm cultivation became prominent. The course now followed Lebir  River until Kuala Krai Station. Kuala Krai lies on the confluence of Galas and Lebir Rivers. From here-on, the combined rivers becomes the mighty Kelantan River which drained into South China Sea at Kota Baru. This stretch gave the Jungle Train it’s namesake.

Kuala Krai Station is substantial. Perhaps an exchange station as it had several tracks. An abandoned burnt mail train engine was parked with several wagons. Near Kusial, we crossed one of the historic bridges – Guillemard Bridge over Kelantan River. The sound, jungle scenery and the river brought back wonderful memories of my childhood train experiences. It was nostalgic. This 600m single track railway truss bridge is one of the of the oldest in Malaysia. It’s historic as it was built by the British. Astonishingly, after nearly a hundred years (completed in 1924), its still not only standing but functional. A technological marvel to appreciate.

Soon after we rolled into Tanah Merah Station. Many Malay families disembarked here. returning home after the raya celebration. This is also the access to Kuala Terengganu including Perhentian Islands. The scenery became more urban as the jungle retreated into the background. We passed a couple of road crossing before reaching Pasir Mas Station. From here, there is access to Sg Golok Station via Rantau Panjang and onward into Thailand by train. From here-on, it was flat terrain with various agriculture cultivation including paddy. At Wakaf Baru Station, probably the last station, almost all passengers disembarked. Local transport was available as this station is the access to Kota Baru. However, I decided to travel further to the end terminal.

The scenery was just hectares of paddy cultivation and small villages. Buffalos grazed lazily in the hot afternoon. The train journey slowed as it approached another road crossing before rolling into the terminus station – Tumpat Station, at 1257. We were just 3 minutes slower than the scheduled time. Fantastic for a schedule that started the day before at 2044 in Kempas Baru. A journey of about 16 hours. A handful of passenger and mostly the crew assembled on the platform. Construction work on the station was still ongoing. Activities were frantic – the sleeper bed linen were removed and heaped into bundles; the cafeteria was emptied and restocked and the engineers and conductors long day was done. A distant marker indicated  527.75km. The was nothing dramatic about this place. Only at Tumpat does the ECRL actually meets the coast. Within 10 minutes, the work horse engine was detached and moved towards the terminus – the end of the line.  A worker manually diverted the track to allow the engine into the adjacent track. At 1310, the engine is hooked up to the carriages at the tail end and dragged away. Next departure on the ERT27 to Kempas Baru (Southbound) is at 2030 tonight.

Summary and tips

The East Coast Railway Line lived up to its name as the ‘Jungle Train’. An opportunity to encounter rural life. The other sections encountered rural life and passively traveled through interior towns normally not witnessed if travelled by road.

(1) The section between Gua Musang and Kuala Krai is the best ‘jungle’ experience – jungles, historic floating bridges (viaducts), village scenery, haunting tunnels, spectacular limestone hills and networks of ‘teh-tarik’ colored rivers. (2)To experience the jungle ride, the ERT26 (eastbound) offered daytime experience. (3) I suggest doing the journey in several legs including stops in Gemas (old town) , Jerantut (to Taman Negara), Kuala Lipis (historic/old town), Gua Musang (cave exploration/old town railway station) and Dabong (mountain/cave exploration). This offered off the main highway, truly Malaysian town/village experiences. It is certainly a fascinating journey worth doing.

I am not sure whether plans to electrify the ECRL or the disappearance of the jungle will come first. To experience the jungle is to be exposed to the exterior by way of open windows and doors. However, with modernisation, coaches are air conditioned. Therefore, sealed windows. Almost sanitised from the exterior environment. Another important aspect of conventional train travel, in a single line like the ECRL, is the use and exchange of tokens. This art will be extinct with introduction of electronic communication. The future for this train is incorporate a ‘tourist train’ with open windows coaches. This will preserve this iconic experience. Perhaps, this might help stop the ‘disappearance’ of the jungle itself. The novel idea of KTM to provide ‘student transport’ in rural areas to pursue education would certainly affect negatively to many rural families. As always, the best time to travel and experience this Jungle Train in Malaysia, is now.

East Coast Rail Link (not to confused with the existing ECRL – Jungle Train) is mega project to join rail from the west coast – Port Klang through KL and onward to Mentakab to Kuantan and along the coast up to Kuala Terengganu and Kota Baru. It cost about RM50 billion and 30% completed with the help of Chinese State owned companies. Will this bring about the demise of the Jungle Train?

Route and schedule
Riding the trains in Malaysia

Read all about bookings, trains and interesting destinations while Riding the Trains in Malaysia.

Malaysia

Kinabatangan River – adventure into the wilds of Borneo

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Table of Contents
Sandakan-a-rustic-old-world-vibe
Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre 
Sun Bear Conservation Center 
Kinabatangan River Cruise 
Gomantong Caves
Rainforest Discovery Center
Sandakan Memorial Park

Kinabatangan River is the second longest in Malaysia (563km) and drains into a wide delta and into Sulu Sea at Sandakan. The river has many uses – serves as a conduit for transport between interior villages and developed towns upstream. Why Kinabatangan River? The area has diverse habitats – dipterocarp forest; riverine and freshwater forests; limestone caves at Gomantang; mangrove swamps on the coast and ox bow lakes. Furthermore, it is endowed with remarkable wildlife, some endangered. In fact, amongst the highest concentration of animals in Borneo. The place to do this is in the Lower Kinabatangan River – with lodges around Abai, Bilit and Sukau. We choose the most dramatic and with abundant wildlife – Sukau. Homestay and river excursions in local villages is also possible.

To see my adventure photos, go to Kinabatangan River.

We took a 3 days /2 nights package deal which included lodging; meals; river cruises and transport from Sandakan and the resort; Sepilok Rehabilitation Center; Sun Bear Conservation Center; Rainforest Discovery Center and the Gomantang Caves. The package is practical and just be taken care of. You can do it independently – book accommodation, organize food and transport independently. However, most lodges provide all the services.

We booked with Sukau Rainforest Lodge and its affiliate Borneo Ecotours. This lodge became the first member of the prestigious national Geographic Unique Lodges of the world collection.  It cost more than other resorts, but it had a reputation of being eco-friendly, using electric motors on smaller rivers/streams and supports environmental issues. A bit of luxury from time to time is great.

Read about  Sandakan – a rustic old-world vibe

Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre.

Sandakan, the gateway to wildlife, is a great place to hang around, enjoying local fruits and delicacies, seafood and ordinary life. We were picked up from our hotel in Sandakan. Our first stop is the unique Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre. As wildlife is threatened by habitat loss to agriculture, profiteering and human settlements, this center is a pioneer in rehabilitation and reintroduction into the wild. More importantly, it is an educational center. To learn and educate issues relating to Orangutan in Sabah.

Our visit coincided with the 10am feeding time. Several age groups reside here. Interestingly, the released orangutans are free to go into the unenclosed part of the forest. I managed to see a wild male and a mother with a baby. It was an amazing feeling. At the center, it was a little crowded with visitors. Watching through the glass room was not particularly inspiring. Perhaps necessary to separate visitors from the animals.  My first encounter with an orangutan was in the late seventies in Semenggoh Wildlife Centre in Kuching, Sarawak. I was a student. His name was Bullet – as a bullet is lodged in his head permanently. Any attempt to dislodge may cause death. He had the softest of palms as he grabbed my hand and walked.  I was nervous. A moment to cherish.

Sun Bear Conservation Center

Close to the Orangutan Center is the Bornean Sun Bear Conservation Center. Malayan sun bear are the smallest bears in the world. Again, like in the orangutan center, it is about rehabilitation, reintroduction and education. Most bears are brought into the center escaping capture and hunting. Poaching is a major concern. The bears are in an enlarged enclosure and watching them in a ‘natural’ environment is great. They seem to get on with their normal business – foraging for food. Magnificent animals though.

Kinabatangan River Cruise 

We were picked up by bus (by boat if we had taken the most expensive room – the villa) in Sandakan and headed towards Sukau, on the banks of Kinabatangan River. Ironically, to see wildlife, we passed large swath of oil palm plantations. Its cultivation, for economic growth is equally a major threat to biodiversity, wildlife habitat and ecology. Other threats include human settlement and draining wetlands for cultivation. How do we balance it? We arrived at Sukau village and caught sight of the muddy brown Kinabatangan River. The water level was high and occasional flooding is common. A short boat ride brought us to our lodge. I am always awed and feel inspired when surrounded by dense lush green tropical rainforest. The only sound heard was the fast-flowing river and sound of the forest – insects creaking, bird calls and the occasional boat passing on the river. The lodge has expansive boardwalks, aptly named Hornbill and Attenborough Boardwalks, extending into rehabilitated forest for nature walks – day and night. The reason we are here, to hopefully to see wild orangutan, pygmy elephants and proboscis monkeys while on a river cruise. There is a sense of tranquility, having arrived. Only the sound of forest. Along the boardwalk, high on a tall tree, I sported a nest. It was an elegant Wallace Hawk Eagle. Later, I was stopped in my track by a group of common pig-tailed macaques. They can be aggressive. Butterflies, creepy crawlies and lizards kept me occupied along the walk.

After a relaxed evening snack of traditional deserts, we embarked on our first river cruise. Spotting wildlife on the riverbanks is by chance. Surprisingly, just a short ride on the river, we spotted a wild orangutan gorging itself on wild figs. Its golden hair shined in the afternoon sun. It was exciting to know that these gentle creatures, although increasingly difficult, to see them wander freely in the forest. Soon we encountered the playful and endangered proboscis monkeys or “Monyet Belanda”. They have distinctive flopping nose. They are endemic to Borneo. The mainly live on trees amongst the mangrove forest. They are arboreal – tree dwellers. My first encounter of these monkeys was at Klias Wetlands near Beaufort in Sabah. Birdlife is plentiful and likely to spot the many species of hornbills and water birds. Sightings of pygmy elephants had not occurred for nearly sixty days as our guide explained. The reason – plentiful of fruits inside the forest. I was optimistic. Perhaps a stray or rouge elephant. Our lodge is comfortable and relaxing. Don’t miss the talk by a guide on the lives of the orangutan. Fascinating and informative.

At 9pm, we took the optional night cruise. In the pitch black, only illuminated by a spotlight, we sped through on the river. I had no expectations on what we would see. Perhaps a waste of time. I was wrong. We spotted a kingfisher, presumably in deep sleep as it did not move as the light shined on it. Its technicolor feathers are amazing. I could almost grasp it in my hand, and that’s how close we got! Next, look out for red spot on the water, our guide advised. They would be salt water crocodiles. There are plenty here and they move quickly and submerged immediately. It certainly was an interesting hour.

The next days’ ‘morning cruise was early. We departed around 6am. In parts of the forest, the mist had settled on the surface of the water. It was a dreamy world. However, it disappeared rapidly as the sun rose. We slowly made our way through several smaller tributaries. The forest here is closer. So is the wildlife. More proboscis monkey swayed on trees as the foraged for food. Some with little babies on their rounded bellies. On the way to an ox bowed lake, our guide pointed out to a pair flying birds some distance away – Storm’s Stock. She mentioned that there is only five hundred left. We were lucky. As we made our way through a narrow channel, a small troop of proboscis monkeys jumped in mid-air from one bank to the other. Their acrobatic skills must be admired. They happen to be good swimmers too. Just watch out for the crocodiles. We switched to the electric motor for a slower and quieter cruise. There was a chorus of calls from the black and white Oriental Pied Hornbill.  Further down, a Brahminy Kite (Eagle) perched on a treetop, surveyed its domain. However, the lake is slowly being choked with aquatic plants. Common kingfisher casually passed looking for their next meal. We revisited the fruiting fig tree near the lodge. We were lucky, again, to see a mother and baby wild orangutans feeding on the fruits. A lovely outcome to end the day.

Gomantong Caves

After lunch we headed to Gomantong Caves (optional). It is known for its resident, mainly, colony of the wrinkle-lipped free-tailed bats. It was an interesting walk through the forest aided by wooden steps to get to the cave entrance. this is Simud Hitam Cave. It was dark and had a strong odor of bat droppings (guano). These make great organic fertilizers. Aided by torch and head lights, we managed to make our way slowly. I could see the floor moving – giant cockroaches and spiky (centipede-like) insects. Above, chatter from bats. The entire wooden walkway is slippery from water seeping through the limestone. In the middle, a shaft of light and greenery. An exposed section and an outlet for bat to enter and exit. Permanent ropes hung from the ceilings. These are used to collect swiftlet bird’s nest high on the walls. A dangerous and arduous job to collect them. Any false move, a 90m fall into the guano heap below. At the entrance, an owl was perched on a tree branch waited patiently in anticipation. In the skies above, falcons swirled. Why? Well, like us, they too are waiting for the daily dusk exodus of bats from the caves. Unlike us, they want to feast on them. Finally, the exodus began in batches. I could only see them as black dots in the sky. They swayed like music cords. They were in their thousands. An impressive sight indeed.

We departed our luxury lodge after breakfast. We were in luck. Instead of returning to Sandakan by bus, we were put on the boat. Something I hoped for. It was a fast but pleasant two-hour ride through initially the main river and eventually through smaller mangrove forest channels at the mouth of the river at Sandakan Bay. The final section is rough as we hit open water. It was another opportunity to spot wildlife, and we did – crocodiles and proboscis monkeys. Also, an opportunity to see the Orang Sungai community – the indigenous people of the river.

Rainforest Discovery Center

From Sandakan we headed to the wonderful Rainforest Discovery Center close to Sipilok Orangutan Sanctuary. This is a great way to explore the Borneo Rainforest. Not only at ground level but also with an aerial experience via the several canopy walks. Seeing eye level of  treetops is amazing. A bird’s eye view of the forest below. however, with our guide’s schedule, we managed about 1.5 hrs.

 Sandakan Memorial Park

A lovely park to commemorate one of history sad episodes. This is one of three site of POW camps between Sandakan and Ranau. A few articles displayed were a steam engine and a dredge. This is a place for contemplation. On an black obelisk, these words were written –

Sandakan Memorial
In Remembrance Of All Those
Who Suffered and Died Here,
On The Death Marches
And At Ranau

Finally, we returned to Sandakan and just in time to celebrate Chinese New Year.

 

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Sandakan – a rustic old-world vibe

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I have been to Sabah several times. Sandakan is a new destination. The main reason – to explore the mighty Kinabatangan River on a river cruise. We checked into Four Point by Sheraton, ideally located at the heart of Sandakan, overlooking Sandakan Bay and Sulu Sea. Nearby is the harbour and fish landing base, central market and a walking promenade. To see my photos, go to Kinabatangan River

Sandakan buildings looked tired but have a delightful old-world village vibe about it, especially around the central market and harbour. In the morning, rickety fishing boats laden with their daily catch arrived and unloaded. This include, sting ray, prawns, sharks and an assortment of fish. Ice blocks are transferred from lorries to the market via ramps. The fish market is busy. So is the adjacent produce market. I love markets as they are a great way to soak in local culture and gauge the economic prosperity. Outside the central market, impromptu stalls sell all kinds of produce from night to early morning. It becomes a car park after 7am.

A great way to experience this old town is walking the Sandakan Heritage Trail (about 2hrs) – we started at the old town’s 100 year old Masjid Jamek – a quaint square with William Pryer Monument and the Sandakan Heritage Museum – a steep climb on the a rather unkempt 100 steps staircase through a forest surrounding – sipped tea amidst great sea views at English Tea House with an English colonial architecture – Agnes Keith Memorial, then called Newlands. Once occupied by American author, Agnes Newton Keith, amongst which wrote the Land Below The Wind in 1939 – little remains of an old staircase to nowhere – pay respects at Kun Yum Temple (Goddess of Mercy Temple) – Saint Michael’s and All Saints Church – Sum Sing Kung (Temple of Three Saints), opposite the town field and back to town. A short ride to Puu jih Syh Temple, high on a mountain, provides wonderful views of rustic Sandakan and its coast.

In the evening, head to Kampung Buli Sim Sim for some seafood dinner over swaying water. It is overpriced but you should try it once. There are several eateries to choose from. Ask the locals for their recommendation. My favorite is the out of town, Kim Fung market – from breakfast to supper! Try the handmade Youtia (Yew Char Kuey), Tow Foo Fa and many delicious local dishes. Others include Kong Teck (homemade noodles) and San Da Gen Kopitiam, a cafe style and the food court above the central market, in the old town. You won’t go hungry in Sandakan.

Rhythmic drums echoed through the old town as a golden dragon made it way through. Even dragons use elevators (inside the mall)! Today is Chinese New Year. In the evening, the waterfront is the place to be – watch the sun set and stalls opening for business. After dark – durian, mangosteen and langsat seller occupied the pavements to sell their wares. Nearly everyone eats on site. That way, you don’t pay for bad ones. Just watch out for pick-pockets!

Sandakan is also the gateway into nature reserves – Kinabatangan River cruises, Sepilok Orang Utan Sanctuary, Borneo Sun Bear Conservation Centre, Labuk Bay Proboscis Monkey Sanctuary, Rainforest Discovery Center, Gomantong Caves and Turtle Island. Nature, wildlife, food and cultural experiences in one town.

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Climbing Mount Kinabalu 6

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The sky was blue and darkness was just disappearing. The horizon began to emerge with reddish -orange hues. I could barely see the blinking lights of the huts in Laban Rata and Kundasang. My body was already spent but my spirits were high. Navindd and I kept moving. Hikers supported each other and urged us to press on. The thick blanket of cloud below us seem to have taken a life of its own, swirling and weaving. The sun began to rise behind the Ugly Sisters and Donkey Ears rock formations. However, the view towards the summit at Low’s Peak was clear. The serrated surface of the mountain became detailed. The sun peaked above the clouds around 6.15am. It was magnificent. Tired but elated. We continued walking and reached the 8km mark around 6.20am. Shadows formed of the surface. There were sounds of jubilation. About 500m away, the triangular but serrated peak glowed softly. Nearby, a monstrous St John Peak rose abruptly form the barren rocky floor. Several other peaks formed a unique structures. The highest, Low’s Peak is at 4095m, the highest. As we rested,  Navindd developed some cramps in his foot and I was plain tired.

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I looked up the trail to the summit. It was crowded and in most places a single file trek. Part of the large group were making the way up to the summit and movement was painfully slow. It was made difficult by the hikers descending from the summit. At times, traffic came to a standstill.. We decided not to continue on, 300m from the summit, as it would certainly take us quite some time to complete the circuit.  Instead, we wandered around and savoured the fruits of our climb with the sun warming our bodies. Views to the valley below were certainly obscured. We were lucky with the weather today. Small pools of water reflecting these unique rock formations, added to the dramatic scenery. For the previous two days, the attempt to hike to the summit was cancelled due to poor weather. The surface in most places is slippery even without rain. Hence the ropes to give a little support along the way.

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We began our decent around 7.30am. It daylight, some stretches were visibly dangerous.  Yes, there are some element of danger if we strayed away from the ropes. We retraced our steps back towards Laban Rata, which could be seen in the valley below. Once again, I had to confront the treacherous rock face rope assisted decent.  I was more nervous now that climbing is in daylight. Navindd seemed fearless. Hanging on to the dear rope, little by little I managed. It seemed like eternity. Past that stretch, my body eased completely. We reached Laban Rata Huts around 9.30am.

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After some much needed breakfast, we prepared to decent the mountain. The weather began to change as dark clouds began to build up. The landscape evolved from barren to sub-alpine to cloud forest. It was humid and the vegetation lush. Epiphytes and orchids hung on trees and rotting branches. Birds darted quickly around the forest. Flowering rhododendrons added some colour to the green environment. As we descended, we met hikers going uphill. The strain of the climb was written on their faces. I was humbled by the heavy pack the porters were hauling up the mountain. Not to repeat my previous day’s error, I packed lunch at Laban Rata. It rained intermittently as we approached Timpohan Gate. It poured heavily as we entered the gate. It was around 2.40pm. Even in “good weather”, the climb is slippery at places and definitely on the barren rock surface towards the summit. I wondered about the predicament of all the hikers on the mountain.

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We caught a bus back to the Park headquarters where we received our certificate of achievement. I am proud of Navindd with his achievement and the fact that we had travelled this journey together. I hope this little gesture of climbing Mt Kinabalu would instil a sense of adventure and love for the outdoors. I told myself, I am not climbing this mountain again. (I recalled the same statement after reaching the summit of Kilimanjaro in 2012). In my older age, I may have to find an easier way to bond in the future. Nevertheless, this has been a rewarding, adventurous and fulfilling journey. Well done Navindd, albeit some aches and pain.

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On 5 June 2015, a 6.0 magnitude earthquake struck on Mt Kinabalu. Eighteen people tragically lost their lives including hikers, porters and guides. Through this story, I hope readers will have a greater appreciation of the unique landscape and environment, the ardours task of porters and guides and of course the enthusiasm, motivation and pain of individual hikers. This is a small dedication to all who have been there, those whom aspire to experience this natural phenomenon and above all, in memory to all those whom lost their lives. I belief they are in a good place. After all, this is a “Mountain of Dead Sprits”.

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Climbing Mount Kinabalu-5

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Today is summit day. There was quite a commotion downstairs in the dining room. I had little sleep. It was a little cold as I stepped out of my room. The large group members had already gathered and attired to start the morning hike. They were waiting for the food caterers to prepare the morning snack. I noticed a sign with a quote – something like ” breakfast will only be served from 0230″. The time now was 0130!. I could not believe it. Were they just eager or just plain silly? I went back to bed. There goes the plan to leave before and ahead of the group! Navindd was fast asleep.

After a quick hot snack, we were eager to get going. When we stepped outside, the cold wrapped us up. Fortunately, this time, we had thermals, gloves and proper jackets on. We even had our own headlamps to shine the path forward. Azman informed us that we need to be at Sayat-Sayat check point before 5.30 am. Otherwise, hikers may be stopped from continuing to the summit. I am not sure about this. With that in mind, we forged forward….which translated to uphill all the way. Up on a steep wooden belian steps, we climbed in pitch darkness shone only by our head lights. A long thin line of lights streamed up hill. It looked like a formidable task ahead. I stopped frequently as my poor fitness level surfaced. Navindd was still good, perhaps a little cold. We were above the cloud line. Visibility of the valley below was sporadic. We reached a fixed roped section of the trail. Against a solid granite rock face, a narrow crack rose uphill. Gripping the rope, we heaved up with our legs finding traction on a rather slipper surface apart from the narrow crack. I was nervous climbing up as the steep fall did not look attractive. One after another, we all climbed up very slowly. This is a treacherous stretch! I was concerned and wondered how I managed this stretch the last time. I don’t even remember it. Then was about 20 years ago. Perhaps youth had a part to play.

After that wrecking rock climb, we finally reached Sayat- Sayat Huts (3668m), the final checkpoint. It was 5am. We made it. There seem to be some pressure to walk quickly to get here, otherwise….. Our permits were checked and we were off again. The vegetation here is now a few standing shrubs and trees skeleton left. The landscape is now a rocky one. There were a few more tricky stretches using rope to propel forward. We have now passed the 7km mark and it was slow slog up the barren rocky plateau. I could see lights stretching from Sayat- Sayat Hut right up towards the summit. Surreal mountain formations surrounded us.

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Climbing Mount Kinabalu-4

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The immediate impact was the crowded trail. A large group of hikers, some with identical attire, climbed the mountain today. Later I found that they belonged to a non-profit group making up to a 100 people. I belief that only about 150 people are allowed to climb per day. It looked like peak traffic on the narrow trails. However, the atmosphere was pleasant. The quiet contemplation that comes with climbing in high places was lost. Trees thinned out and whatever was present, were stunted and twisted. Some were permanently swayed onto one side. Rhododendron plants seem more prolific and some in flower. Undergrowth is thick. Fortunately, it was cloudy which eased climbing. I relived the vivid memories of this subalpine meadow zone. Old man’s beard  (air plants) hung on branches of the skeletonised trees. This added dramatic sceneries. Higher up, I could see the rocky plateau. The walk from here, at over 3000m, was exposed. With chattering from other hikers and the dramatic sceneries, I slowly made my way up. Words of encouragement and support was occasionally heard. Navindd was keen to carry on and he took off. From here, there are no diversions and not likely to get lost. The trail is not dangerous here.

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We reached Laban Rata, 3273m, our stop for the night, at around 5pm. It was crowded and noisy. Dinner was already in full swing. Weary and tired, we checked in and almost immediately at the dining table with a hot meal. It was satisfying for me to have climbed this far without any injuries or pain. Tiredness is normal. The mantra to climb any mountain for me is try to walk continuously with regular but shot stops. Being fit is a requirement, which I had not heeded this time….again. Our accommodation was warm, although no heating was available. Several other huts were scattered around. It was already misty and cold. The views of the unique landscape were obscured. Fortunately, throughout the trail, it only rained intermittently. The paths and black rocky surfaces were already wet.

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One conversation that evening was about attempts by hikers to reach the summit in the previous days had failed due to poor weather. We hoped for the better. The other conversation, by hikers not part of the big group was, what time do we start walking the next morning to beat this crowd? From here on, the trail became narrow and in many stretches, probably single file. It rained. I looked around the room, everyone seemed happy just to have arrived here. Like us, just happy to have a hot meal in hand.

Navindd and I had a shower and readied to get some rest and sleep. Our dorm room had four beds. It was certainly cosy and surprisingly warm. However, it was noisy with the large group. It was already dark after 6pm. Hikers were still arriving, drenched and shivering, around 7pm. Some of them just 10 years old. I wondered if the had enjoyed the hike? At these heights, altitude sickness can hit anyone. There were some signs amongst this group. However, help was on hand.We had a plan for next morning. Wake up at 2am and after a light snack, attempt for the summit. Being a light sleeper, I had difficulty sleeping with the constant walking and knocking by people arriving late at the huts. Navindd had no such issues.

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Climbing Mount Kinabalu-3

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After a quick but hearty breakfast, Albert brought us to our stating point. Unlike most people who start at the Timpohan Gate, we started at Mersilau Gate. This Mersilau trail is longer by about 2km adding about an extra 2 hours trekking time. However, this trail is gradual and the exposure to the mountain environment is greater.

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Through paved winding roads surrounded by pristine native forest, we arrived at Mersilau Gate around 7.30am. There is accommodation here. Being here feels amazing. Breathing the freshness, listening to the sound of a waking forest, seeing the mist lifting above the tree canopy and feeling the coolness of the jungle on my skin, I felt invigorated and spirits lifted. Although, I had been in many forests’ before, this feeling doesn’t seem to ware off. We handed over our documents to the rangers and met our guide, Azman, a native to this area.

We set off on the trail around 8.30am. This time around, I decided on the Mersilau Trail starting from Tambang Gate (2000m). Most people seem to hike from the Timpohan Gate. Mersilau trail is longer by about 2km or about 2 -3 hours walking. Today, there were about 10 hikers. It was hot and humid once we entered the forest. Perhaps, it was due to sweat pouring out of my body. A result of the steep climb. This is Lowland Dipterocarp Forest. Vertical tree trunks reach for the invisible sky as the tree canopy form a thick cover. Within the first hour, I could feel the strain on my body. Again, I am attempting to climb Kinabalu in a rather unfit state. Perhaps, better to have climbed Kinabalu and carry on to China. Wishful thoughts in hind sight! Navindd was as pace with our guide, Azman.

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Fortunately, although wet and humid, the trail was good. Not muddy or slippery. The trail is uphill with occasional decent. With regular stops and slow walking, we managed from one shelter hut to another. A slow progress, and thankfully not painfully as I recalled my first climb. Now we entered the Lower Montane Forest. Gradually, the tree canopy opened up as the trees become shorter.  We had crossed a river earlier and now another small wooden bridge over a tributary of West Mersilau River. It is refreshing but no time to linger too long. We have already reached above 2500m.The vegetation here is different. Moss hung off tree branches, dense undergrowth and bamboos and orchids appeared. Azman introduced me to Rhododendron lowii, a bright large yellow flower. Nearby were orchids and other epiphytes.

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As we continued, we came across an impressive cluster of Pitcher Plants or Nepenthes. I remembered seeing larger ones on the Timpohan trek. Now we had entered the Cloud Forest. These part of the mountain are constantly drenched with moisture. This encouraged epiphytes and moss to flourish. Liverwort and ferns covered shaded parts of the forest floor. Gradually the height of trees reduced and the canopy opened. Grass like plants became more frequent. An assortment of flowering plants also sprouted in pockets. We stopped for lunch at Magnolia shelter, around 2.30pm. We thought the guide would provide lunch as arranged by Sutera Santuary. To Azman’s surprise, there was none. Neither did we talk to him about it earlier. We survived with a few chocolates and biscuits. Shortly after that, we walked into an open area on the ridge of a mountain. Steep slopes on either side. The views were great but partial due to low mist and clouds. The trail seem to be descending. Walking became relaxed. Eventually we arrived at Layang-Layang Hut (2702m) intersection where both trails met, from Timpohan Gate and Mersilau. We had hiked about 5.5 km. The circumstances at this point were in contrast.

 

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Climbing Mount Kinabalu-2

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In January 2015, my son Navindd, and I climbed Mt Kinabalu. I thought this would be great for bonding as well as planting a seed for the love of travel and the outdoors. It is certainly a trying effort for an old fella like me to carry on with this type of activity. Well, perhaps one more time!

My bookings for the climb were all organised by Lay Yong, my sister-in-law, including accommodation in Mersilau (Alan’s (nieces’ husband) parents place), whom I had not met before. Sabah Parks had privatised the bookings for the climb. Apart from issuing permits ( cost RM30) and organising guides, all bookings are handled by Sutera Sanctuary. Naturally the cost had increased, now about RM480.

Mt Kinabalu, part of the Crocker Range, is the highest peak at 4095m in South East Asia on the island of Borneo in Sabah, Malaysia. We arrived at Kota Kinabalu, in short called KK, just past midday in stormy and rainy weather. Tropical rain bucketed down and views of the surrounding hill and mountains were obscured. A taxi was pre-arranged to take us to Kundasang. Some roads turned to streams with fast flowing water. Carefully our driver negotiated these treacherous metal roads. The drive became more challenging as we hit the mountain roads towards Kundasang, the closest town to Kinabalu Park.

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We arrived at Kundasang after three hours, around 3pm. The driver stopped at a row of stalls selling fresh fruits and vegetables. The air was thick with cool mist. Visibility was poor. The ladies, however, were colourful and cheerful. The weather improved dramatically as we approached Kundasang town. I remembered it as a small village market on my first foray here. Now, it is a decent town surrounded by agriculture cultivation. Lay Yong, my sister-in-law, had organised a friend to pick Navindd and I and stay for the night. At 2000m above sea level, the quaint town is cool and has a temperate climate. The local population are mainly of Kadazan – Dusun origin and a small Chinese population. It is a lovely place just to enjoy the surrounding and climate. Its proximity to Kinabalu National Park makes it a tempting place to visit.

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Thomas and his, rather cheery, son Albert waited for us. I immediately got a liking to them although we have just met. Through winding narrow roads, roadside shops and farms, we arrived at their home in Mersilau. Home, is under the gaze of a hazy silhouette of the unique formation of Mt Kinabalu. On the opposite side, a forested valley. I could live here, I thought. After settling in with a hot drink, Albert took us to the Park HQ, the gateway into the mountain, to sign in for the following day’s planned climb. It rained. Local buses and transportations arrived and departed from here. Accommodations and restaurants are all found here as well.  All the bookings were checked by Sutera staff, required fees paid and a guide organised by the Park’s staff. It was around 5.30pm. Darkness came early in the mountains. After a hot meal, we went to sleep quite early in anticipation of the ardours climb the following day. I wanted to be well prepared this time around. However, having a month holidaying in China before arriving here is not quite what I had in mind. I was apprehensive.