The loading zones, which are off limits, were stacked with stacks of polystyrene boxes and quick moving scooter like contraptions. Beside the inner market, we explored the outer markets. Small retail shops packed with home utensils, cutleries and kitchen items enticed buyers. In another part of the huge complex were the wholesale vegetable and fruits markets. These areas are not off limits and the locals shop here.

Apparently, there are plans for this atmospheric market to be moved. With this move, although justified as businesses grows, surge in visitor numbers and to cater the needs of everyone with safety in mind, the ambiance of a old market will certainly be lost.

On the adjacent main road, the usual traffic of cars, busses and pedestrians’ completed the picture. This is a typical working class neighbourhood almost a stone’s throw away from the shiny Ginza district.

Several restaurants in blocks opposite the market offered the freshest seafood. Unfortunately, this Sunday, long queues of over sixty had already formed in almost all the outlets. I thought they were queuing up for the bus. Each outlet had only about fifteen seats. We wandered around to see what was on offer and to seek the shortest lines. This ended up being futile.

The sun was blazing and the time past 10am. Our stomach began to grumble. The most expensive dishes are sashimi, over ¥2000 per serving. We were all tormented with aromas wafting throughout these narrow and crowded walkways. We peeped inside a few restaurants. It was frantic, in a good way. A continuous flow of people flowed through the narrow doorways under fluttering “noren”. There are several rows of pathways in these blocks of restaurants.

We ended up at a Tempura-Ya (only sold tempura). A few tables and a long bench catered for about 12 people. A lovely couple dished out hot tempuras of all sorts. Language is a challenge but fun. In the kitchen, the cook dressed in white continued to dip and fry those beautiful tempuras in an oversized wok filled with hot oil. The aroma was mouth- watering. I was salivating.

Seafood and vegetable tempuras in light batter, miso, vinigered rice, cold tofu with soy and pickled vegetables was the ideal breakfast to start the day. Heavenly flavours of sweet, sour, savoury and salty mingled on my palate. Navindd and I selfishly finished the red berry pickled fruit that was meant as an accompaniment. This was our first local experience of a typical Japanese cuisine. It was delicious and fulfilling. The small cosy setting gave us a sense of home cooking. Navindd was delighted as he loved Japanese cuisines.

“the presentation of food was impeccable and the food itself was delicious and satisfying” – Navindd

Next to the Tempura shop was a coffee shop. This was a pleasant surprise. An elderly man offered coffee to customers seated on a long bench. The coffee beans are blended here. Large tin containers were stacked on shelves. It was strong but the aroma was pleasant. The atmosphere was homely. I had 3 in 1 (ready to drink) tucked away, just in case.

Hama Rikyu

A short walk from the Tsukiji market is the delightful green lung – Hama Rikyu. The garden is decorated with pruned pines, ponds and manicured lawns. This park is adjacent to the shiny buildings of Shiodome. It is nice just to wander and contemplate in an unhurried manner. Some ponds are sea water managed intricately via flood gates. There is a lovely tea house to rest and taste. From here, we caught the water boat and sailed on the Sumida River to Asakusa. This is a lovely alternative way to see Tokyo.

“…..when you look up, you can see towering bodies of shimmering silver up above and green trees below. This contrast….makes Hama Rikyu a little bit more special” – Navindd

Our first visit was to the biggest seafood market in the world – Tsukiji Market, “Tsukiji Shijō”. From Tokyo Station, we caught the Yamanote Line to Shimbashi Station in Ginza District. We were dwarfed and enclosed by towering shinny buildings. Being a Sunday, the streets were quiet. From here, it was a short walk, based on the map we had. However, too many junctions and roads made it difficult to follow. Fortunately a local man was going in the same direction. It was around 9am and was already frantic as small motor vehicles darted and swerved as they carted styro foam boxes of seafood. Inside the covered building, all kinds of seafood were on display. Some of which we had no idea at all.

“…as we entered the warehouse, an overpowering smell of the ocean hit me like a brick wall. The scale of this place was absolutely huge”  – Navindd

Parts of this wholesale area are off limits before 9am. The popular tuna auctions take place very early in the morning and visitor numbers are limited. It was busy and the wholesalers were focused on their business. The pathways are narrow. Getting out of the wholesalers way is wise. Locals also shop here. Seafood here is carted and distributed daily around the country.

“Distributors drove small forklift- like machines, delivering goods for the thousands of shops there. I sometimes wondered how they found their way along this labyrinth of shops.” – Navindd

It was past midday when we arrived at Takayama. Along the train journey, we passed mainly rural villages and wheat farms. We criss-crossed several slow flowing rivers. Takayama is located in the mountainous Hida Region in Gifu Prefecture. Here, we stayed at a traditional Japanese guesthouse, “Minshuku” where “tatami” mat floors, sliding doors and creaky wooden houses are the norm. It was a very hot day. The town looked quiet and the atmosphere relaxed. For lunch, we stopped at a restaurant where the local speciality is Hida beef. Marbled slices of beef grilled with some teriyaki sauce. Apparently, these animals are fed apples and beer? To get vegetarian meals was tricky. Hot pot, “nabemono” and grilled dishes are popular. I felt like we were in a sauna inside these restaurants. Takayama is known for its preserved old town, sake breweries, festival and its proximity to the Japan Alps.

The Miyagawa River intersects the town and the old town lies on the east. Several bridges connect the banks of the river. The most popular is the red Nakabashi Bridge. It is a compact town and walking is the best way to enjoy this slow pace town. This includes the temples, shrines, museums, restaurants, the old neighbourhoods and the preserved old town. However, the weather was hot and humid which made walking demanding. Kids played in the shallow river. Cherry trees lined the banks of the river.

The Hida-Kokubunji Temple, the oldest temple in Takayama, was initially built around 760AD. It started with seven tier wooden pagoda but reconstructed during the Edo Period to the current three storeys. The pagoda is visible from our “Minshuku”. Just past the steps at the main hall is gong struck with a long cloth adorned with totems. The interior is intricately carved. However, there were no English explanations. At the open courtyard, a handsome and lush lime green Gingko tree, over 30m tall and estimated to be over 1000 years old, provided shade in this hot day. Buttress roots swirled around its base in a protected area.

Today, the Takayama Jinya is a museum. During the Edo Period, it was the administrative centre for the Hida Region under the Tokugawa Shogunate. It is a large wooden complex with wide “tatami” floor halls, sliding doors and residential places. The inner courtyard has lovely manicured garden and stone walkways. I envied these designs – with pleasing views from inside the hallways. A large annex building acted as a rice storehouse. All made from the priced wood this region was once famous for. Delicately pruned pine trees add an old world appeal.

This complex is located at the edge of the old town, “sanmachi”. Two lovely women dressed in bright traditional kimono added colour to the brown and white exterior.

The WordPress.com stats helper monkeys prepared a 2012 annual report for this blog.

Here’s an excerpt:

600 people reached the top of Mt. Everest in 2012. This blog got about 3,000 views in 2012. If every person who reached the top of Mt. Everest viewed this blog, it would have taken 5 years to get that many views.

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