Category Archives: Malaysia

Climbing Mount Kinabalu-2

In January 2015, my son Navindd, and I climbed Mt Kinabalu. I thought this would be great for bonding as well as planting a seed for the love of travel and the outdoors. It is certainly a trying effort for an old fella like me to carry on with this type of activity. Well, perhaps one more time!

My bookings for the climb were all organised by Lay Yong, my sister-in-law, including accommodation in Mersilau (Alan’s (nieces’ husband) parents place), whom I had not met before. Sabah Parks had privatised the bookings for the climb. Apart from issuing permits ( cost RM30) and organising guides, all bookings are handled by Sutera Sanctuary. Naturally the cost had increased, now about RM480.

Mt Kinabalu, part of the Crocker Range, is the highest peak at 4095m in South East Asia on the island of Borneo in Sabah, Malaysia. We arrived at Kota Kinabalu, in short called KK, just past midday in stormy and rainy weather. Tropical rain bucketed down and views of the surrounding hill and mountains were obscured. A taxi was pre-arranged to take us to Kundasang. Some roads turned to streams with fast flowing water. Carefully our driver negotiated these treacherous metal roads. The drive became more challenging as we hit the mountain roads towards Kundasang, the closest town to Kinabalu Park.

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We arrived at Kundasang after three hours, around 3pm. The driver stopped at a row of stalls selling fresh fruits and vegetables. The air was thick with cool mist. Visibility was poor. The ladies, however, were colourful and cheerful. The weather improved dramatically as we approached Kundasang town. I remembered it as a small village market on my first foray here. Now, it is a decent town surrounded by agriculture cultivation. Lay Yong, my sister-in-law, had organised a friend to pick Navindd and I and stay for the night. At 2000m above sea level, the quaint town is cool and has a temperate climate. The local population are mainly of Kadazan – Dusun origin and a small Chinese population. It is a lovely place just to enjoy the surrounding and climate. Its proximity to Kinabalu National Park makes it a tempting place to visit.

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Thomas and his, rather cheery, son Albert waited for us. I immediately got a liking to them although we have just met. Through winding narrow roads, roadside shops and farms, we arrived at their home in Mersilau. Home, is under the gaze of a hazy silhouette of the unique formation of Mt Kinabalu. On the opposite side, a forested valley. I could live here, I thought. After settling in with a hot drink, Albert took us to the Park HQ, the gateway into the mountain, to sign in for the following day’s planned climb. It rained. Local buses and transportations arrived and departed from here. Accommodations and restaurants are all found here as well.  All the bookings were checked by Sutera staff, required fees paid and a guide organised by the Park’s staff. It was around 5.30pm. Darkness came early in the mountains. After a hot meal, we went to sleep quite early in anticipation of the ardours climb the following day. I wanted to be well prepared this time around. However, having a month holidaying in China before arriving here is not quite what I had in mind. I was apprehensive.

 

Climbing Mt Kinabalu 1

This was 1994. I remember this journey vividly. My company sent me to Sabah for some work. The site was Mamut Copper Mines, one or if not the largest open cast copper mine. My task was to study ways to reintroduce vegetation as well as find new opportunities in agribusiness for the company. This was my first visit to Sabah.

The site was a massive scar on a mountain. Terrain was steep and in places, near vertical. However, the climate was temperate and flower and foliage production may be viable. The discussions ended early on Friday. I decided to climb Mt Kinabalu.

I arrived at the park HQ around noon. I applied to climb the mountain and book accommodation for the night. The rangers looked surprised. Normally, trekkers would start early in the morning. It was mandatory to take a guide. Eventually my guide, Lumborg, turned up. Booking and permits sorted, about RM50, I went off on the trek. The start was from Timpohan Gate. I was naive and my only motivation to climb was to take the opportunity of being here in Sabah. This activity was unplanned. I am always motivated to go and see places.

My guide, Lomborg, a local Kadazan, sized me up – are you fit? I am an active sports person and with a rather free willed spirit. My enthusiasm overflowed. He seemed satisfied with those words. The climb through magnificent tropical rain forest mountain, the oldest in the world, was exhilarating. However, it was taking a toll on my body too. My guide stopped to give me an opportunity for a rest and drink. I had no drink.  I drank from the stream as he did. Part way, my legs were arrested with severe cramps. Four points – both calves and thighs. The pain was unbearable. Tears came easily. We had passed the halfway point. I literally dragged my pants putting one foot forward and followed with the other. The climb was uphill of course! My guide must be having second thoughts to continue. Incredibly, he was patient and encouraging.  Eventually, I made it to Laban Rata, the stop for the night. It was around 6pm. Everyone were in jumpers. I was only in my T-shirt. I felt strange. The solid granite rock terrain with an alpine vegetation was amazing. Stunted Rhododendron with twisted trunks and branches surrounded the accommodation. Heavy mist descended. After dinner I collapsed into bed with the knowledge that I will be woken up at 2.30am to make an attempt for the summit to catch sunrise.

When my guide came the morning, he must have doubted my ability to continue. In contrast, I was up and fully charged for the climb. He was happy but surprised. He asked me to put on my gloves. I had none. I removed one pair of socks and slipped onto my hands. Any torchlight or headlamp? I just said, let’s follow the people in front with lights!   All I had was a day pack with a camera and a light waterproof jacket. On my feet, sturdy shoes with, now, one pair of socks. I was ill-prepared for the climb. The fact is, I was here and therefore just wanted to climb. My guide was stone-faced as if numbed.  I reached the summit just as the sun came over the horizon. Dark shadows, majestic rock formations, heavy mist and the filtered sunlight on glistening black granite surface, created a heavenly sight.  A place for the gods I thought.

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The mist lifted. At Low’s Peak, surrounded with deep ravines and gullies, with the warm sun on my face, I sat and savoured the incidental journey. The views of the lowlands were clear and magnificent. From the summit, Low’s Gully seemed like no one would return! We were lucky indeed today as this mountain seem perpetually draped in mist.  We returned to Laban Rata. After a quick breakfast, after a long descend through the tropical rain forest, we headed to Timpohan Gate. I absolutely loved being surrounded by trees and the natural environment. A telecommunication station and a cascading waterfall came into view. By now, I was walking only on excitement and adrenaline. The body held, only just. A  memoir – a certificate of accomplishment is given – “…….had climbed to Low’s Peak, the summit of Mt Kinabalu (4101m) highest in South East Asia on 22 October 1994”.

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I returned to the copper mine. That evening and for several days later, my legs were completely stiff, heavy and riddled with pain. This was the low point of the climb up Mt Kinabalu. In bed at home, with strong painkillers doing its job, I felt a sense of achievement and satisfaction. To climb the highest mountain in South East Asia and to have witnessed local people and wild scenery, simply amazing.