Into One of Earth’s Last Wild Places

Borneo, a huge tropical island – exudes rawness, untamed and unexplored ecosystems teeming with assortment of flora and fauna. Danum Valley, about 80km from Lahad Datu, offered exciting opportunities, untouched wilderness, to experience wildlife and native tropical forest. There are over 300 species of birds, which account for 75% of Borneo’s bird species. There are also over 500 tree species. Additionally, there are over 120 species of mammals, including 10 species of primates. Danum Conservation Area is 438sq km.  of which 95% is mixed lowland dipterocarpus trees (including shores, hopea and drybalocarpus).

Most areas covered is non-logged. It is a 130 million years pristine primary forest. This forest is a lush, untouched world. Wild orangutans, pygmy (Bornean) elephants, red (maroon) leaf monkeys, hornbills, and gibbons still roam free here. It also has the tallest tropical rainforest tree – yellow meranti (Shorea faguetiana). Locally called Seraya Kuning Siput at over 100m. Danum Valley is truly one of the last wild places left.

Sabah (Malaysian Boneo) – is an exciting place for exploration and adventure. There are several thrilling experiences to enjoy. You can go diving at Sipadan, Mabul and Kapalai Islands, and Tunku Abdul Rahaman Park. The Semporna coast for diving/snorkeling. You may also climb the highest peak in South East Asia, Mt Kinabalu, which stands at 4000m. Wildlife experiences await at Mersilau, Tabin, and Danum Valley. Enjoy Kinabatangan River Cruises. Nature reserves like Sipilok offer awe-inspiring visits to the Orang Utan and Sun Bear Rehabilitation Center. Visit Labuk Bay for the Proboscius Monkey Sanctuary and Buefort’s Klias Wetlands. The list goes on. There are many ethnic groups. Each has a unique culture. These people call Sabah – the Land Below the Wind – home.

Information and bookings

Staying in Danum Valley

When planning a visit to the Danum Valley Conservation Area, there are two accommodation options — and both offer very different experiences:

1. Borneo Rainforest Lodge – A luxurious eco-resort, ideal for those seeking comfort, gourmet meals, and guided nature walks with a touch of indulgence.
2. Danum Valley Field Center (DVFC) – A renowned rainforest research station that’s more rustic, but no less immersive. DVFC is ideal for nature enthusiasts, birders, researchers, and travelers looking for a more authentic, close-to-nature experience.

I chose the latter — Danum Valley Field Center — and it was an unforgettable experience.

Booking & Travel Tips

Accommodation bookings for both places can be made directly. I recommend booking directly. Alternatively, you can book via travel agents, especially if you’re bundling other adventures. These adventures include Kinabatangan River cruises, Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre, and Proboscis Monkey at Labuk Bay (Sipilok)/Klias Wetlands (Beaufort). You can also explore Tabin Wildlife Reserve, hike Mount Kinabalu, or go diving/snorkelling from Semporna.

If you’re going through an agent, I personally suggest River Junkie. They were quick to respond, transparent with pricing, and flexible with itinerary options. Note: Travel agents provide their own guides, so experiences may differ slightly.

Contact & Guide Recommendations

To book directly with DVFC, here are the best contacts:

• Reception: +60 11 1762 3016
• Ms Rosti (Lahad Datu office): +60 10 931 7612

Ask for Daryl or Henry as your guides — I had both. They were fantastic. Deeply knowledgeable, patient, and genuinely passionate about the forest and its inhabitants.

Once on site, you can choose from several activity packages. Most are optional, including: Sunrise viewing, Night Drives. For specialist activity like Birding, pre-booking is essential.

Accommodation Types & Pricing

DVFC offers two-tier pricing — one for Malaysians and another for international visitors. If you’re Malaysian, ask if the local rate still applies — I managed to get it!

Here’s a breakdown based on my stay (3D2N, New AC Resthouse, single occupancy):

• Malaysian: MYR 1,770
• Non-Malaysian: MYR 2,820

Room Types:

• Deluxe Rest House: Air-conditioning, hot showers, and a basic wired internet connection (no Wi-Fi).
• Standard Rest House: Fan-cooled, hot showers, no A/C.

Getting There

The jump-off point is Lahad Datu, which can be reached in several ways:

• By air: Daily MAS Wings flights from Kota Kinabalu (BKI) to Lahad Datu Airport (LDU).
• By road: Public transport or taxi from Sandakan (approx. 4–5 hours) and Semporna (approx. 2.5–3 hours)
• Private overland transfer: Can be arranged with your DVFC or travel agent booking.

A Note on Wildlife Viewing

Let’s be real — this is a vast, dense tropical forest, not a zoo. Wildlife sightings aren’t guaranteed, and patience is essential. With the help of experienced guides, regular excursions, and scanning the forest floor and canopy, your chances improve significantly. By listening to the sounds and occasionally detecting smells, the possibilities increase tremendously. Being in this unique natural environment is already a plus!

My Experience: Lahad Datu & the Journey to DVFC

I arrived by flight from Kota Kinabalu to Lahad Datu (mid-June). Then, walked to the DVFC office nearby and completed my registration, permits and payments.

As a solo traveller, I was expected to hire a private guide—which typically involves an extra cost. I was fortunate. A group of three travellers were departing for Danum Valley on the same day. I could join them. That said, this arrangement depends on both availability of guides and group consent, so it may not always be possible.

Wanting to explore more of the area, I had arrived a day earlier. Lahad Datu is a small coastal town with a distinct local charm. I spent the afternoon wandering its fish harbour, boat jetty, and the lively wet market along the waterfront.

My accommodation in the heart of the town – The Executive, with plenty of local eateries and night markets nearby.

Day 1 – Into the Heart of the Jungle: My Journey to Danum Valley

The following morning, a DVFC driver picked me up at 0930, together with three fellow nature enthusiast at my hotel. We headed off south on the highway towards Silam. From thereon, another 63km, on unsealed and winding roads through Ulu Segama Forest Reserve. The journey was quite thrilling crossing through thick tropical jungle. Our driver kept his eyes peeled for wildlife along the entire journey. A Yellow Throated Marten hastily crossed the road. It was an exhilarating drive through thickets of bamboo, mature forest trees standing like sentinels forming a dense canopy. After two hours, we arrived at Danum Valley Field Centre (DVFC), nestled along the banks of the Segama River. The river, slow and shallow, meandered gently through the forest. It separated two distinct ecosystems. There was lush primary forest on one side and the regenerated secondary forest on the other. A reminder of past logging and nature’s remarkable resilience.

First, some formalities and introduction to our guide – Henry. My AC accommodation was quite good. However, power is from 7am – 11pm only. The cafeteria is separated from the accommodation and delightful place to let the forest environment sink in. Leaves in the canopy rustled in the light wind. Insects singing and bird calls everywhere including Hornbills and ants marching in search of a meal. Lunch was optional. I brought (from Lahad Datu) ‘Nasi Lemak’ – a Malaysian favorite. The weather turned gloomy, but the vibrant forest environment lifted my spirits.

First Steps into the Jungle: A Rainy Start

My first trek in the forest was at 1530. Unfortunately, it rained from 1500 onward making wildlife spotting challenging plus the trail slippery. With intermittent rain, Henry led us to an accessible area. We crossed a suspension bridge over the Segama River into the primary forest. DVFC sits in a region previously logged, with the road acting as a boundary between untouched and regenerating forest. The track was muddy and filled with intertwined and tangled tree roots. Leeches are present. We crossed small streams on makeshift bridges amid humid air and the strong smell of decaying leaves.

After exploring for just 30 minutes, Henry received a call from another guide. There were Red Leaf Monkeys (Maroon Languor) nearby along the road. We hurried. Sure enough, we witnessed a family of Red Leaf Monkeys feeding on tender reddish leaves. Two babies gingerly learnt the ‘ropes of life on the treetops’. As raindrops fell, with plentiful of fresh leaves, the family was in no hurry to leave. With poor visibility under the dark canopy, we return to our lodge by 1700. That was enough to get my appetite for more jungle treks. A tropical rainfall followed. Back at the rustic dining hall – with a hot cup of coffee, chocolate cake (left over from my flight), listening to rain fall onto adjacent dreamy looking forest trees and insects calls – bliss. Fortunately, the rain stopped by 1800. Dinner at 1900 was simple but hearty, filled with local flavours and accompanied by the forest’s night symphony.

Into the Dark – Night Drive Adventure

At 2000, an optional night drive (MYR80) offered a thrilling ride on the back of a truck through the dark. Spotters – wielding flashlights, sweeping the darkness in search of nocturnal life. A sense of adventure and anticipation of seeing something set in.

For two hours, we bumped along jungle tracks. Hearts racing with every sighting – Samba Deer, Brown Wood Owl, Red and Black Flying Squirrel, large male Frog-Mouth Owl, Malayan Civet, Crimson Pitta Bird (endemic to Sabah), flying frog, and a male Banded Civet in the shadows. The exhilarating experience more than justified the cost – window into the secret life of the forest. The forest buzzed with life well into the night. What an exciting beginning!

Day 2 – Morning Mist & Majestic Hornbills – A Daybreak in Danum Valley

Reeling from last night’s thrilling night drive, I looked forward to a full day of discovery. After a cup of hot coffee and biscuits, we went on a morning walk at 0630. The surroundings was cloaked in dense mist and silhouettes of a hidden forest canopy. Bird calls echoed from every direction. Henry identified one – Helmeted Hornbill, largest of its species. The trails were muddy and made walking slippery. Nevertheless, we trudged on. It was only an hour’s walk before breakfast. I lingered longer waiting for the next trek at 0900. I heard squawks from a fig tree, several hundred meters from DVFC, on the banks of Segama River. Several Oriental Pied Hornbills flew into the canopy. Amongst them, I spotted a striking pair of Rhinoceros Hornbills, the second largest. It was a remarkable sight – these magnificent birds feeding and socialising. Fig trees are rich with fruits in August, attracting birds and primates. Henry noted DVFC’s high wildlife density is partly due to fig trees (Ara) planted years ago in the secondary forest. Even a short walk can lead to unforgettable encounters.

Into the Wild – An Encounter with Orangutans and Pygmy Elephants

Just after we departed for out 0900 trek, we spotted a venomous Pit Viper curled up of a shrub – reportedly seen for days. Every jungle trek brings opportunities for wildlife encounters. I kept an eye out for leeches as we navigated muddy paths. On a fallen tree trunk, spotted a handsome Angle head Agamit Lizard. We criss-crossed between the secondary and primary forest, across streams and makeshift bridges. Unfamiliar insects – chirping and humming, carried through the forest. Henry got a whiff of a pungent smell – Orang Utan urine. His senses heightened. Moments later, a shaggy, reddish-orange figure appeared in the canopy—a female with her baby. With plenty of young leaves, they lingered. We watched, for over an hour. The mother glided through the treetops, while the baby playfully explored, never straying far. Thoughts of leeches forgotten. A deeply moving and fulfilling day.

Back at the cafeteria, another sumptuous lunch. Delighted to have some ‘pisang goreng’ (fried bananas). I decided to extend another day at DVFC as the feeling of being here was mesmeric. It was a little tricky as guides are designated to individuals/groups. Henry was assigned to another group the following day. I left it to the admin staff. On a trumpet-like creamy flower – a sun bird fed intensely on the nectar with its long beak. I have seen this bird from day 1. Its tenacity must be appreciated.

After lunch, headed to a small bench outside the rest house. The view over the small valley and Segama River offered opportunities for bird watching. On a nearby matured Ficus trees, multiple bird species – Bornean Spider Hunter; Malaysia Blue Fly Catcher; and Black and Blue Fly Catcher. The colours were vibrant. We left 1530 for an afternoon walk with Henry. He received a call. Bornean Elephants were spotted along the road, just 1 km away. There were two female adults and 3 babies. We hurried and caught my first views of the Bornean Elephants (Pygmy elephants). A lucky and unforgettable encounter.

The Forest After Dark – Night Walk Wonders

At 2100, we joined Henry for a night walk to discover the rainforest’s nocturnal side — a real highlight. Flashlights in hand, we ventured into the shadows. We spotted Crested Fireback Pheasant, File Eared Tree Frog, Earth Tiger Tarantula, Dark Eared Tree Frog, Giant Huntsman Spider, Banded Palm Civet. Near the rest house, a stunning Buffy Fish Owl. The jungle by night is a realm unto itself – activity invisible during the day. An extraordinary second day.

Day 3 –Sunrise Over Danum Valley: A Morning to Remember

I opted (MYR80) to take the 0500 – sunrise drive to Bukit Atur. It was still dark. In the pre-dawn darkness, our headlights revealed a herd of elephants. They were slowly making their way off the road and into the forest. At the lookout tower, dawn broke. A pair Lesser Green Leaf Bird were perched on the tree top as thick mist settled over the forest.

The sky was filled with streaks of fiery red, orange and yellow. Gibbon calls woke the residents of the forest. A sea of clouds blanketed the landscape, broken only by silhouettes of treetops reaching skyward. The cacophony of the forest became louder. Sunrise was spectacular as bands of rays illuminated the forest canopy – a fortunate break in the weather.

On the drive back, we spotted a White Crowned Shama Bird, Crested Fireback, Bornean Yellow Muntjac , the same herd of Elephants, Pig Tail and Long Tail Macaques. At breakfast, a family of red leaf monkeys foraged adjacent to the dining hall. Just another reminder that in Danum Valley, wildlife is never far.

Into the Wild: Gibbons, Orangutans & Elephants in Danum Valley

For the morning walk, Daryl took the Tongkat Ali trail, guided by the haunting calls of the North Bornean Gibbons. In the canopy, only shadows – hand and the back. Their movements unpredictable. We moved on after half an hour. Then, signs (fresh dung) of a single elephant – a bull. If nearby, this can be dangerous. Daryl was alert. Tracking through the dense and humid forest, a clearing – a bend on the Ulu Segama River. A great place to take a dip. In the early days, they used to pan for gold here. Under a tree shade, Daryl spotted a Greater Angus Pheasant. Overhead, a variety of Hornbills soared, as their deep coarse calls echoed across the tree canopy.

Back on the trail, we managed to see a family of orangutans – mother, baby and a older sibling (perhaps the same one we saw yesterday). It’s a joy to see the baby trying out its antics in climbing. However, always within mum’s long reach. To witness these intimate family moments in the wild is humbling and privileged.

Afternoon walk, with another group of visitors, headed east on the main road. We doubled back. after news of elephant sighting near DVFC. The elephants were restless – trumpeting call and erratic. Soon they disappeared into the forest. After all, these are wild elephants. Several trails were closed from storm damage. The night walk focused on nocturnal insects and crawlies. In places, the sounds were deafening.

Day 4 – Waking Wild – Final Morning in the Rainforest

Sleep in my non-AC room was intermittent. Around 3am, sounds of Sambar Deer grazing outside my room. As dawn crept in, the forest slowly came alive. The haunting, whooping calls of gibbons echoed through the forest. Near the centre, I watched Red Leaf Monkeys leap unhurriedly along a narrow stream. In the bush – a Crested Fireback Pheasant ducked between the dense forest floor. Above the canopy, chorus of deep calls of Rhinoceros Hornbills. Time to pack up. At 0930, a FWD picked us up and returned to Lahad Datu.

Closing Thoughts

My journey to Danum Valley was a thrilling immersion into Borneo’s untouched rainforest. From misty treks and hornbill sightings to intimate encounters with orangutans and pygmy elephants. Night walks revealed the forest’s hidden world, alive with elusive creatures. Danum Valley’s rich biodiversity and serene beauty offered more than just a wildlife experience. It was humbling and raw. It provided a deep connection with the natural world. This ancient ecosystem thrives quietly, revealing its wonders only to those willing to slow down and listen. Sometimes, it’s simply about being present—as the forest continues its mysterious rhythm, untouched and magnificent.

Here’s a list of things to consider bringing :

• Leech socks (I found it useful to detect and dispose them)
• Trekking shoes
• Comfortable t-shirts (long sleeves and quick-dry)
• Outdoor pants (long, quick-dry)
• Insect repellent
• Sunscreen
• Hat
• Flashlight/Torch (headlights are not recommended as hornets are attracted to them)
• Binoculars
• Cash for personal use
• Reusable water bottle
• Swimwear
• Cash (as there are no ATMs)
• Dry bag or waterproof backpack for trekking
• Raincoat or poncho
• Personal toiletries and medication
• Basic first aid kit