Tag Archives: Geisha

Kyoto – Geisha

One of the most enigmatic and alluring symbols of Japan, besides Mt Fuji and cheery blossoms, are the Geishas. These are women whom had gone through rigorous apprentice training in the fine arts of dance, music and as a hostess. These arts are centuries old and some with notorious connotations or inferences. Let’s get this right. Geishas are not prostitutes. In early history, now outlawed, “pleasure quarters” were established by the regime which included sex. These were never part of the ‘hanamachi” world. Incidentally, the first geisha were men dressed as women.

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Geishas are immaculately dressed and made up from head to toe. The most striking features are their white painted faces, flowing intricately designed silk kimono and their dainty footwear. Their hair-dos, accessories and just their mere presence, fills up the area. Not only the foreigners, even the local Japanese, both men and women, seemed infatuated by them.

Geishas are single women, living, learning and working in a strictly matriarchal society under the guidance and care of the house mother, the “okāsan”. The lodging for the geisha and maiko is the “okiya” where they will spend their life. Many women run and manage the tea houses, “ochaya”, where the geisha perform. The area where they live and perform is referred as “hanamachi – flower towns”.

In Kyōto, the most number of geisha in the country, numbering less than 2000, are found. They are called “geiko” and the apprentice is “maiko”. The most popular ‘hanamachi” districts are Gion, Pontochō and Miyagawa- chō.

Seeing a geisha or a maiko is a privilege in my opinion akin to climbing Fujisan. They do leave a lasting impression after they are long gone. Well at least it did for me.

“The geisha system was founded, actually, to promote the independence and economic self-sufficiency of women. And that was its stated purpose, and it actually accomplished that quite admirably in Japanese society, where there were very few routes for women to achieve that sort of independence”.– Mineko Iwasaki, Geisha, A Life

“Geishas are not submissive and subservient, but in fact they are some of the most financially and emotionally successful and strongest women in Japan, and traditionally have been so.”
— Mineko Iwasaki, Geisha, A Life

Map of Kyoto

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Kyoto – Arashiyama and Sagano – 2

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The Bamboo Groove in Arashiyama is a very poignant place. There seem to be a magnetic force that beckons one to listen and be mesmerised by the tranquil beauty of the slender lime green and upright swaying stems. A concrete pathway cut through the forest. Now, we felt as part of the forest. The breeze picked up and the whole vista literally swayed. An eerie but soothing sound of rustling leaves and rasping stems became a constant. Occasionally, when the tall stems collided, a deafening squeaky sound resonated throughout the park. Dusk added another unnatural dimension to this environment. Enlightening, perhaps! It’s fascinating how a grass held sway emotions of those present here. The slow stroll was strangely soothing.

untitled-6“….the only light that was present was a shard of sunlight managing to pierce the thick amour of the tall bamboos, towering into the sky. The slow crack, crack sound could be heard all around us, as the wind blew the masses of huge trees as one. As I looked forward, I saw lines and lines of bamboo, grouped up as close as they could be, swaying in the wind……To look at the forest from the side on the pathway, it was like looking at an enormous green wall” – Navindd


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In the cloudy dusk, street lights and red lanterns dimly illuminated the main street in Arashiyama. Lee Cheng alerted me to an impending sight. Across the street, two characters walked quickly in tandem. My heartbeat rose. This was my first encounter with the iconic Geisha. I quickly snapped a few pictures in the dimming dusk light as they walked swiftly. One on the most beautiful sights I had seen – faces painted white with glossy ruby lips in the middle part of their lips, cherry blossom pink cheeks, red on the outside of their eyes and black liner around their eyes, and highlighted eyebrows. I noticed that one had only her lower lips painted red. Their outfit was immaculate- a flowing, elaborate and shiny silk kimono with beautiful floral silk embroidery and brocades. To add to the already magnificent outfit, they wore a dangling “obi”, “darari”, and sash on the back of the kimono. Their hair neatly tied up and adorned with elaborate combs and dangling hairpins, “kanzashi”. They both wore the “zori”, slippers with a “tabi”, split toed socks. In their hands, a small parcel wrapped in layers of cloth. They were just across the street. I put my camera down. I was awestruck by their elegance, beauty, poise and presence. There is an eternal aura around them. I was enchanted. As they walked away, the backs of their exposed necks was painted white with a W- shape design. A memorable sight indeed! Once they disappeared, there seem to be a void. Such is their presence. Regretfully, I had no clear pictures of this delightful encounter.

We walked off the main street into narrow lanes and discovered several eateries, gift shops as well as residential homes. Cyclist and motorcycles dashed past us in the dim streets lit by red lanterns and neon signage. We retired to a lovely noodle shop for dinner. It had been a long day for us. The scenery and setting of Arashiyama had certainly wet our appetite for this old capital. We returned to Kyōto by train.