Breakfast was provided with the booking. In the cool morning, we dined at the low table with a ‘cut out’ bottom to stretch out our legs. It was like sitting on a chair with no back rest. Steaming bowl of rice, pink teriyaki salmon, pickled vegetables, egg roll and a bowl of warm miso soup was served. A hearty breakfast indeed! It may not be everyone’s cup of tea having rice for breakfast. In Japanese culture, this is a norm. Kayoko was always attentive and asked if topping up rice and miso was required. This is a great way to start the day.

From Naramachi, we walked towards Mochidono Arcade and into one of the many side streets. There was an Indian restaurant, amongst several retail shops and eventually ended at the Sarusawa Pond surrounded with willow trees with a view of a pagoda. This is Kōfuku-ji Temple, a Hosso Buddhist Temple. Across Sanjo Dori is a steep flight of steps. At the top, on the left, is an octagonal wooden building, Nan’en- dō, and a path, on the right, towards the five storey pagoda.

Tall pine trees lined this wide gavel path. Kōfuku-ji Temple was established in 710AD and used by the Fujiwara clan during the Nara and Heian Period. Today, however, only a few buildings remained. It included the 50m high five storey pagoda, “gojū-no- tō”, the second highest pagoda in Japan. The enclosure was locked. Apparently a large image of the Healing Buddha, “Yakushi Nyorai”, is located here. We passed the Great Eastern Hall, “Tōkon-dō”. Further walk brought us past a huge construction site – the Central Golden Hall. Then to the Northern Octagonal Hall, “Hoku’en-dō” was originally built in 721. These pair of octagonal structures are quite unique and interesting – the architecture, and are valuable as they both hold irreplaceable and priceless national treasures.

The streets were uncrowded and the walk was pleasant. Finally we reached the green lung – Nara Park, “Nara Kōen”. One entrance is marked with a red “torii”, “Ichi- no- mochi”.

Clothing, quilted bedding and mattresses hung on lines to dry in the sun. Typical daily life continued here. However, it was strangely quiet. This is the magic and charm of this preserved Naramachi. Cosy tea and cake shops allowed time to rest and soak in the atmosphere. There are several temples and shrines hidden amongst these alleyways. Museums, sake breweries, gift shops and “onsen” are scattered in this area. One museum we visited was the “Naramichi Koshi no- le”, the Naramachi Lattice House. It is a restored traditional “machiya” townhouse of a merchant’s house. It was just past closing time but the caretaker allowed us entry. I loved the dark wood floors and staircase. There is a certain ambiance that it creates. A small but refreshing inner garden, “naka-niwa” complete with water basin and stepping stones, occupied the centre of the long townhouse. From the upper floor, the slated windows allowed for views of the tiled roofs, garden and light to enter into the rooms. At front of the house, slatted wooden lattice windows allowed for views of the street but concealed the interior.

A White gem unknown of man –
Be it so if no one knows!
Since I myself know its worth
Although no other –
Be it so if no one knows!
– a monk of the Gango-ji Temple

We stumbled into a temple gate. Gangō-ji Temple site used to occupy a large area in the present – day “sitamachi”, old town. We had no idea if this temple was part of that former complex. It was a serene site with large trees and well-kept grounds. A few stone lanterns decorated the place. An ornate stone footprint lay at the base of an aged tree surrounded by buttress roots. At another street, we entered Toku- ji Temple. These are little surprises we encountered as we strolled aimlessly in Naramachi. Tourist shops are always exciting – little mementos and gifts to take home. We found a “noren” maker at a street corner. These are curtains (usually made of cloth). They are hung at the entrances of houses or as partitions between rooms. Here, there were hand woven hemp cloths, either plain or dyed with vegetable colours. However, we were unable to get the size we wanted. These would make great gifts. Traditional Japanese gifts abound at every corner. On the streets, there were few local tourists today. The walk around is a perfect way to end the day, wandering in leisure. Nowhere to go, but succumb to the charms of ancient Japan!

It was early evening and dusk had set in. We headed to a popular Kyōto entertainment area, Pontochō, located in an atmospheric area between Shijo- dori and Sanjo-dori, west of Kamogawa River. Off the main road, we entered an inconspicuous narrow alleyway with a few lanterns hung on an overhead signpost. Upon entering, a different world seems to exist here. This pedestrian only street of well- preserved traditional 16th century dark wooden houses is packed with restaurants offering inexpensive yakitori to modern and traditional cuisine. Western- style restaurants and pubs are conveniently located here as well. On the flip side, there are the expensive geisha houses and “Chaya”, tea houses. Pontochō is located in Kyōto’s “Hanamachi”, geisha district. Working geisha and “maiko” can be seen in this area. Many Kyōto residents and visitors suggest this to be the most beautiful street in the city. I may have to agree.

With soft light from road side lanterns and dimly lit street lights, this street oozed charm and a feeling of stepping back in time of the Edo Period. Although narrow and crowded, the paved street was pleasant enough to stroll. With numerous choices of eateries, we were careful to read the menu, some in English, and check out the prices before venturing inside. High end tea houses entertained by geisha are also intermingled here. Samples of dishes in plastic and interestingly displays of fresh vegetable were laid at the entrances. Sake bottles lay at the doors to entice and welcome visitors. Everything is neat, tidy and certainly inviting.

We choose Mimasuya Restaurant located in a restored old merchant house. With the usual loud mass gesture of “irasshaimase”, welcome, from the kitchen staff, we were ushered into a cosy room over- looking the Kamogawa River. City lights twinkled across the river. The staff spoke little English. The dishes, however, were beautifully presented and were delicious as all our meals had been so far.

We had “sushi”, tuna “sashimi” platter, salmon and tempura platter accompanied with the usual “tsukemono”, pickled vegetables and miso soup. The ambiance and setting of the interior together with a polite and friendly service, it was indeed a dinner to remember. I looked forward to saying “sumimasen, okanjo o kudasai”, excuse me, the bill please. The response is received with delight. The bill tonight was ¥8000. As we walked past the open kitchen to the exit door, again, en-mass, the kitchen staff thanked us. We felt welcomed and appreciated. It was a good feeling.

We continued our stroll down the wonderful street. Little streets branched off leading to various establishments including karaoke and bars. We entered a main street with a canal lined with weeping willows. Soon, we were back in the din of Kyōto City. Pontochō is essentially a must see sight in Kyōto both for ambiance, old world charm and delicious food. This is our last night in Kyōto before we head to the first ancient capital of Feudal Japan, Nara. Today, unfortunately, there was no encounter with the beautiful geisha.