1. Visa and GBAO
2. When to travel
3. Which direction?
4. How many days?
5. Altitude Sickness
6. Border crossing and police check post
7. Accommodation and food
8. Transportation
9. Currency/Budget
10. Resources

• Planning and Organising the essentials

See my full post here and Travel Map

I arrived a day earlier in Dushanbe to sort out my GBAO Permit (Gorno-Badakhshān Autonomous Oblast). I had already lodged my application in March to the Tajik embassy in Kuala Lumpur (Visa on Arrival). I just had to present my passport at the OVIR office. Well, that was the plan! It was Saturday at 0830. Within 25 minutes, received the GBAO Permit (a paper) for 100 Somoni (US$10). As planned!

Visa and GBAO

Visa is required for those countries without visa free regimes. For Tajikistan – evisa.tj and for Kyrgyzstan – evisa.e-gov.kg

Three ways to obtain GBAO (for Tajikistan only) –

Which direction?

The Pamir Highway, used for millennia by many civilizations, essentially for trade (Silk Route) and later for political control begins and ends from Mazar i Sharif, Afghanistan and Osh, Kyrgyzstan. In Tajikistan, the Soviet named M41.

The M41 aka Pamir Highway (1200km) begins or ends between Osh and Dushanbe. The extended southern “tourist” route between Khorog and Bulunkul (300km), skirt along Afghanistan border is an exciting alternative route.

My preferred direction is from Dushanbe to Osh – easy to organise your GBAO personally in Dushanbe, elevation gain is gradual (if you have not been in high altitudes before beginning your journey – I met two people in Murghab whom had just landed in Osh, Kyrgyzstan and travelled immediately to Kyzyl- Art Pass into Tajikistan and Karakul with altitude sickness!

This should give you an idea of altitudes and acclimatation –

Dushanbe (700m) → Kalai Khum (1200m) → Khorog (2200m) → Langar (2800m) – Alichur (3990m) – Murghab (3618) – Ak Baital (4655) – Karakul (3895m) – Kyzyl Art Pass (4280m) – Tulparkul (3500m) – Sary Mogul (3000m) – Osh (963m)

How many days?

It depends on your time and interests. The direct route journey can be completed in 3 – 5 days. Taking the extended route, between 5 – 7 days. If you’re intending to add some side trips like hiking and exploring valleys outside the main roads, between 9 -12 days and more. I spent 9 days with several hikes. Furthermore, it depends on mode of travel. If you’re hitchhiking, be flexible with your days as transport in some areas are sparse.

Altitude Sickness

In these high mountains, anything beyond 2500m, altitude sickness is real. Travelling from Osh, you immediately reach 4300m at Kyzyl Art Pass. You then reach 4600m at Ak Baital Pass. This pass is the highest point on the Pamir Highway. Finally, you arrive at Murghab (3500m). Best precautions are drinking plenty of water couple of days before and during travel. Also, carry Diamox tablets (know how to use them).

Border crossing and police check post

Border crossing between Tajikistan (Kyzyl Art) and Kyrgyzstan (Bor Dobo) require a border permit. There is a dispute between the two countries. As a result, only foreigners are allowed to cross at Kyzyl Art Pass border. Few locals are also permitted. Permissions can be obtained through agents or e-mail to Info@tourism.gov.kg

Read caravanistan/border-crossings for more information.

There a several police post along the highway. Take 10 copies of passport and GBAO before departure. I noticed Norbuk gave ‘gifts’ to border guards to keep a good rapport. Thus included watermelons, cucumber and cash. None of us were asked!

Accommodation and food

Generally, accommodations are guest houses and meals (dinner and breakfast) are included. Average cost $25-$30. Usually, lunch is along the way in village eateries and typically cost $3 – $5. Meat dishes are readily available with rice or noodles . Vegetarians – little options but manageable. Fortunately, no one in my group fell seriously ill. In smaller villages, look for ‘magazine’ – village store.

Traditional food include Plov(rice dish), Laghman (noodles), Damlama (boiled vegetables – dry/soup), Shirchoi (milk tea – most times salt is added and eaten with bread), Sambusa (samosa), Shurbo (vegetable soup) and  Manti (dumpling). They are sometimes vegetarian versions. Then, the ever present Non (bread) – at almost all meals. The popular Kebab/Shaslik was not common in guesthouses.

If you’re planning for hikes, it’s best to stock up in Dushanbe, Osh, or Khorog. Bring dried fruits, nuts, cereal bars, etc. Water is available everywhere. Accommodations can provide boiled eggs, bread and basic staples (best to be self reliant).

These are the accommodation I was in :-

• Public transport – mainly by share taxis. They can be sparse and only travel when full. Reliability is an issue unless you have more time. Cost is cheap but you’re just traveling from A to B. There are no opportunity to stop unless the driver stops. Only the M41 standard route is possible. The southern “tourist” route is possible but scarce. Every local traveling is a potential transport. On my journey, I had seen shared vans/taxis only a few times.

• Hitchhiking – this may be the cheapest way to travel. However, availability of transport is limited. Cheapest, although some kind of token payment is offered to the driver. Negative is, you need plenty of time and hope. On my journey, no hitch hikers seen. Having paid for a hired car and driver, would I give a ride to someone for free? For local’s, transport I had seen are beaten up cars/vans (but a happy bunch) are usually full.

• Organised tours – this may be the practical option for many independent travelers with limited time. Transport and driver is included from start to finish. Furthermore, options are available on the activities included as well as sharing the cost with others (arranged by the company). I chose this option. We formed a group through Caravanistan ride sharing forum and organised transport (tour – 9 days) through Visit Alay. Cost $55 per day (accommodations and food are excluded). Overall total cost was $80 – $100 per day. We had plenty of stops, exploring several sites and hikes.
• Own vehicle – Self-drive with your own or a hired vehicle. This option provides flexibility. It enables you to take unconventional routes. However, the challenges are to be self-reliant (mechanically inclined), organised with refueling and supplies. Motorbikes and bicycles – I have seen several motorbikes and bicycles on the highway. Bicycles must be the toughest mode to handle. They have to negotiate poor road conditions, dusty trails, and uphill climbs. Bicyclists also face the harsh weather head-on. Furthermore, supplies carried on bikes are limited and distances between villages are far. For the committed, my hats off to you guys.

Currency/Budget

Carry cash – I carried local currency and few US dollars (for emergencies). Credit cards were not accepted in all the accommodations and eateries I visited. Outside Dushanbe and Osh, there are Atm’s in Khorog. A supermarket did accept visa.

Resources

• download Maps.me (offline)
• caravanistan.com
• download offline Google maps
• visitalay.com